mtx-l compared to lc-1 questions
09-27-2011, 02:45 PM
#11
MFz Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 60
well thats good to hear since i didnt get that one
im getting my mtx-l friday. ill try to install it this weekend if my puny 90 amp mig permits welding the bung. it should do fine for this. it is rated for 1/8" mild steel, if im not satisified with the weld ill take the pipe to my local exhaust shop, but i really dont wanna pull the pipe out
ill report back here on the sunlight visibility of the mxt-l
im getting my mtx-l friday. ill try to install it this weekend if my puny 90 amp mig permits welding the bung. it should do fine for this. it is rated for 1/8" mild steel, if im not satisified with the weld ill take the pipe to my local exhaust shop, but i really dont wanna pull the pipe out
ill report back here on the sunlight visibility of the mxt-l
09-30-2011, 05:14 PM
#15
MFz Regular
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chicago. (From Austin TX!)
Posts: 540
Well to be fair, it's not really a grounding issue, more of a communication issue with tunerstudio and the WB02. You just have to edit the outputs a bit to get them to match. As long as you properly ground it it will be fine.
10-03-2011, 06:36 AM
#16
its not a communications issue, its a voltage drop issue. the MS sees the signal just fine, but it's not seeing exactly the same voltage the MTX-L thinks it's outputting.
some people actually have horrible grounding issues and dont see correct values because they cannot read a manual before installing and do things like ground the heater and sensor grounds to the frame and on two different bolts.
some people actually have horrible grounding issues and dont see correct values because they cannot read a manual before installing and do things like ground the heater and sensor grounds to the frame and on two different bolts.
10-03-2011, 05:20 PM
#17
MFz Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 60
i had a nice sunshine day here
and the verdict is......
its okish in direct sunlight
you can barely read the numbers
though the sight of the simulated needle is fair
as for grounding i remember the manual saying to groung it at the same place as the device you are connecting it too
bottom of page 12
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Manual_1.1.pdf
i just tapped the ground into the black wire going into the diypnp
i haven't re-opened the diypnp yet to see if thats the best place
this install is temporary
its currently under my radio
one of my projects for the miata this winter is to get a gauge pod
the best settings i found so far are 22.4afr-5.0 volts and 7.35 afr-.20-.25 volts
somewhere in that area
i cant seem to find a setting the way i have it hooked it up that is entirely accurte through out the range
i even tried to slowly make the car idle richer and richer until it died
the goal of that being to get the gauge steady at the lowest possible afr i could
it wound being at like 8 or 9 i cant remember
anyways once i got it to die and get the afr steady rich i played with the 7.35 til it was spot on
once i got it set like that it seemed less accurate then when playing with it while running at a proper afr
maybe its just the way i installed it
for now i have the power wire tapped into the stereo power wire one (not the constant hot but the ignition switched) is that bad?
and ever since i installed it my radio is staticy
perhaps that is why
and the verdict is......
its okish in direct sunlight
you can barely read the numbers
though the sight of the simulated needle is fair
as for grounding i remember the manual saying to groung it at the same place as the device you are connecting it too
bottom of page 12
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Manual_1.1.pdf
i just tapped the ground into the black wire going into the diypnp
i haven't re-opened the diypnp yet to see if thats the best place
this install is temporary
its currently under my radio
one of my projects for the miata this winter is to get a gauge pod
the best settings i found so far are 22.4afr-5.0 volts and 7.35 afr-.20-.25 volts
somewhere in that area
i cant seem to find a setting the way i have it hooked it up that is entirely accurte through out the range
i even tried to slowly make the car idle richer and richer until it died
the goal of that being to get the gauge steady at the lowest possible afr i could
it wound being at like 8 or 9 i cant remember
anyways once i got it to die and get the afr steady rich i played with the 7.35 til it was spot on
once i got it set like that it seemed less accurate then when playing with it while running at a proper afr
maybe its just the way i installed it
for now i have the power wire tapped into the stereo power wire one (not the constant hot but the ignition switched) is that bad?
and ever since i installed it my radio is staticy
perhaps that is why
10-04-2011, 03:20 AM
#19
MFz Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 60
which i am not
but i just went over the manual again
and it says dont even mount the thing near the radio period
and that is where mine is at
it's gotta go