How to prepare/build for forced induction?

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Old 08-19-2011, 07:48 PM
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Default How to prepare/build for forced induction?

Alright guys, after alot of thinking and processing, ive decided that i am going to turbo my car.

now honestly, i have never done any engine building or have any experience with engine building or even turbos, which is why i am posting here. Im looking for some guidance really. but anyways. i have a 97 that i use as my permanent daily driver. even after the turbo build, it will remain a daily driver. because of this, i have opted to do what rotornut did on his red na turbo build, which is instead of the piston slapping forged pistons, is to go with OEM 9:1 pistons and have them specially coated with cyro-REM, and all that jazz.i have also decided i am going to go with the flyin miata hydra turbo kit, but instead of their manifold, i will go with the ABSURDflow tubluar manifold(im not sure if i should go with the downpipe, as i dont know if it works with their kit or not) other than that, i will have a 99 head. now i plan on buying a spare 1.8 engine to do the build on(as i said, my car is a daily so it will remain a daily during the build) and i have compiled a list of parts i think i will need. the goal of this build is to have the experience of a turbo(power and the PSSSSTTTT! ), have fun, and have it remain a daily(power steering and a/c). as for hp, i am looking for around 220-230 to the rear wheels. i know the hyrda kit can exceed that easily, but im going to start out easy then possibly work myself up for more power.

now i know i can buy a trackspeed engine that is already built, but i want to build my own engine to have the experience and the satisfaction that i built my very own car myself, so its unique and special in its own way.

now here is the parts list i have compiled up with.

-spare 1.8 Engine
-99 head(port and polish)
-6 Speed Trans
-rebuild kit(finishline performance)
-Water pump(finishline performance)
-Oil Pump(boundary engineering)
-M-Tuned Forged Rods(949)
-OEM 9:1 Pistons
-Cam Gears(flin miata)
-MSM intake cam(corksport)
-back cut and modified Valves(supertech)
-Valve springs(supertech)
-ARP Main Studs(949)
-ARP Head Studs(949)
-Coolant Reroute(949/begi/flyin miata))
-Gates Timing Belt(949)
-Clutch Kit(flyin miata)
-Radiator(flyin miata)
-Fans(flyin miata)
-Oil Cooler Kit(flyin miata)
-MSM oil pan with MBSP
-trackspeed toyota coil-on-plug kit
-And obviously the head and block with get some machine work to make sure they are good to go for the turbo

as i said, i have never built an engine before, so im pretty sure the list needs to be modified, some things need to be added or taken away, ect. so if you guys could help me, give me some pointers, or give me any useful information that can help me achieve my goal, it would be greatly appreciated!

thanks guys!

Last edited by Cxmoney; 08-19-2011 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:43 PM
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I make 220rwhp and 196TQ, @ 10psi on a 99. I have a BEGi S1 with 2560. Stock engine 160,000 miles. Someday when I rering it, I may go with better rods and turn up the boost. Oh this is with a cheap *** 2.5 inch exhaust, and I do DD the car. It burns oil...about 1/2 quart every 5,000 miles.
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Cxmoney
now here is the parts list i have compiled up with.

-spare 1.8 Engine
-99 head(port and polish)
-6 Speed Trans

-rebuild kit(finishline performance)
-Water pump(finishline performance)
-Oil Pump(boundary engineering)
-M-Tuned Forged Rods(949)

-OEM 9:1 Pistons
-Cam Gears(flin miata)
-MSM intake cam(corksport)
-back cut and modified Valves(supertech)
-Valve springs(supertech)

-ARP Main Studs(949)
-ARP Head Studs(949)

-Coolant Reroute(949/begi/flyin miata))
-Gates Timing Belt(949)
-Clutch Kit(flyin miata)
-Radiator(flyin miata)
-Fans(flyin miata)
-Oil Cooler Kit(flyin miata)
-MSM oil pan with MBSP

-trackspeed toyota coil-on-plug kit
-And obviously the head and block with get some machine work to make sure they are good to go for the turbo
IMO the bolded items are unnecessary at that power level and the underlined items are nice but not necessary. My car is my dd (I do have a backup though) for ~half the year. I don't keep a spare engine, I got the 6sp because I wanted it. I believe the OP is really only needed for track or high revving, you won't need rods / headwork$. Stock fans are fine so is your oil pan.

I'm on a stock replacement clutch with my setup at 16psi (no dyno #'s) that only slips if it gets hot or you're on it in 6th but I would replace yours.

I'd add injectors and management to your list then it's just add turbo and exh when you're ready.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by inferno94
I'd add injectors and management to your list then it's just add turbo and exh when you're ready.
well with the flyin miata hydra, the engine management will be the hydra, and the kit comes with 550cc injectors.

like i said the car is a daily, but the 220-230 rwhp is just a starting point. i might add or take away some psi depending on how it runs and drives.

would it be good to just get a jdm engine from one of the jdm importers and just do minor things to that and turbo it? the jdm engine is $850 and supposedly has low miles...

im trying my best to have this be the most reliable and upgradeable system that will last as long as possible. so far thanks for all the advice.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:31 AM
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How many miles on current engine? Oil useage, compression, leakdown ? You can install a turbo over a weekend, but it won't be fun. Then comes the tuning.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:37 AM
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You can build it if you want, power wise you probably wont need to. I'm on a stock 100k mi engine and I've got a small oil leak at the CAS but that's it after 20k mi boosted. I would've done way more with my car but that money was better spent on a rental house.

You're probably talking a gt2560 turbo like mine and they max out (on a cast mani) at about the point where you'd need rods so it's up to you. Rods are cheap to add to a rebuild the head work is NOT unless you diy it but you can make things worse that way. If you intend to raise the power level from you goal and you can afford it, do rods and fasteners. The cheapest way is to build for a stock block then throw another in when it blows / if it blows IMO.

I don't think a JDM motor is any more robust it simply makes more power from the factory.

Tangent/
I think it would be quite possibly cheaper (or just better for your sanity) to have a beater around vs what you'd spend on a built motor. Get a 4cyl ranger or s10 to have as backup / crappy day driver. Having a small truck will help you out in other ways and 4cyl ones are uber cheap on insurance. Based on personal experience I like to advise people to not heavily mod their dd (turbo qualifies) and not have / get a beater. It's why I've had two vehicles since I was 20, one always being a truck and it makes things easier.
/Tangent
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:49 AM
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The second car or truck is a no brainer...
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by smustang1234
How many miles on current engine? Oil useage, compression, leakdown ?
miles are around 90k give or take some. as far as i know there is no oil burning or anything. just the usual change with synthetic every 3k miles. havent ever done a compression or leakdown test though.

Originally Posted by inferno94
I think it would be quite possibly cheaper (or just better for your sanity) to have a beater around vs what you'd spend on a built motor. Get a 4cyl ranger or s10 to have as backup / crappy day driver. Having a small truck will help you out in other ways and 4cyl ones are uber cheap on insurance. Based on personal experience I like to advise people to not heavily mod their dd (turbo qualifies) and not have / get a beater. It's why I've had two vehicles since I was 20, one always being a truck and it makes things easier.
yes i plan on getting another car soon, but i love my miata and perfer to drive it all the time. haha. most likely my next car is going to be an NB if i manage to find a decent one for a good price. i will get a mini truck eventually though as i want a bagged truck just for the hell of it.
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:22 AM
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slap the turbo on it, if it blows ( i'm too on not likely ) build new one.
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:36 AM
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well thats the thing im worried about, i dont want it to blow on me. getting a transmission problem while on the interstate 2 hours from home itself is a pain in the ***. but blowing my engine, shoot that would be even worse, cause i wouldnt even be able to make it home.

i want to avoid blowing the engine at all costs, thats why the build list ive compiled has so much stuff on it... lol.
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