Post your brake setups!
 

Since we all see wheel threads and exterior shots...let's see your brakes!


Was previously running the Brembo GT kit. Yeah...it's big. While I loved it, I had to sell 2 sets of wheels and get some SSRs to fit over them.

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1312642523

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0077_large.jpg

Now I am running the Wilwood 11" kit. So far...I love it.

(will have pics soon)

Got pictures of the new setup?

My brake setup is pretty basic. Crossed drilled and slotted rotors from FM, Hawk HPS pads and DOT4 fluid. They've been very good to me but now I'm upgrading to blanks, Axxis Ultimate pads, SS brake lines and Super Blue fluid

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/64631623@N06/6014864028/

Mike is your wilwood brakes the kit that sells for around $700-$800? How do they compare to the big brembos? I am thinking about saving up for the wilwood kit.

The Hawk HPS pads are so close to stock I can't really tell the difference. I am going to burn them up here soon when I get a track day and then switch to the HP+ like I had on my RX7. The HP+ is much better than the HPS.

One day I will actually need real racing brakes, I hope.

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313431050

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313431050

corrado rotors up front, sport rotors in rear. ULT brake pads.

Gucci Gucci Louis Louis
 

Front has 11" Corrado rotors with HP+ pads. HPS pads in the rear. Wilwood prop valve and SS brake lines.

Braking is dope but HP+ are really noisy and brake dust is massive!

Next time I'll probably go with Cobalt pads all around with ATE racing brake fluid.

Next time I'll put more agressive pads in the rear.

whomever convinced everyone in the community you need more front brake over the rear was one big troll. I've contiplated going back to 10" front rotors and keeping the 10.9" rears.

blame spec miata...Or maybe paranoia of locking up the rears first (rightfully so though).

Higher friction rear pads work great in autocross though. You can also just pick up a late 03+ NB brake proportioning valve which have a much more even bias.

I'm considering painting my calipers something. What do you guy's think will look good on a black MSM on black rims? I think Red might stick out too much.

Greeeen, just make it a little dark. I personally would just paint that ---- yellow, but I have been liking yellow a lot recently for some reason...

I was considering going with the bronze 6UL's... Maybe a deep gold would look cool for the calipers.

the fear would be there if it was possible. i upgraded my fronts and couldn't even dial the rears up enough with a bias valve! i had to upgrade the rears to compensate.

QFM race pads with 1.8 Front slotted rotors, dirty as but kind on rotors
QFM race pads with 1.6 std rotors
Stainless steel brake lines Goodridge
Rear adjustable bias valve
Dot 4 Motul fluid changed every meeting.(sponsor :D)

With our suspension setup the above works brilliantly on the track and is a lot more than needed on the road, if a tad bit noisy.

Rear adjustable?? you mean its just adjustable in general right? rear adjustable implies it adjusts the bias for each rear wheel?

The bias valve goes in the rear line, adjusting the pressure going to the back, I believe that's what he's referring to.

Personally, I have TSE 11" wilwood/coraddo setup, HP+ in the front, Porterfield RS race in the back, 1.8 size. I pioneered the in cockpit wilwood bias valve, and have it mounted on the passenger side tranny tunnel, behind the shifter. Then I have ducts zip tied to the end links, pointed at the center of the rotor.
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313598169

Next on the list is sport rear rotors with m-tuned brackets, all on my original 1.6 calipers. Hopefully that'll get rid of my slight drag on the right rear.

Brake bias valve is in the front, beside the master cylinder I believe. There is a block in the rear, but thats not for bias I don't think.

He's not talking about the physical location of the adjustment valve, he's referring to which brake lines the bias valve actually affects.

As I understand it, the bias valve on Miatas does, in fact, control brake bias by adjusting the relative power of the rear brakes.

^^What he said^^

You can replace the non-adjustable proportioning valve by the master cylinder with your Wilwood valve, or you can bypass and remove it,and add the Wilwood valve anywhere along the rear line.

Saw this somewhere befo and it is now an interest.

Searching!

Look at keith's targa build from 2008ish(?). Easy install with no brake lines in the cockpit which some may think of as dangerous. Splitime cobbeled together a cable operated version with the bias valve mounted in place of the stock unit. Easier to install, doesn't gain any room which my heat sheild appreciated.

Centric Rotors
XP8 Pads
SS Lines
RBF600
...(not a pretty picture)
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313808764

To help poor ol Track,
This is the adjustable bias valve, it adjust bias to the rear brakes only.
Helps set up at different tracks.
Due to the car being road registered it not allowed to be in the cabin so as not being able to be adjusted by the driver, and with my co-driver that's probably a good thing ( he likes to adjust things )
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313876548
The big red thing around the top shock mount bolts is a master cylinder brace, stops the firewall flexing on those OMG :eek::eek: stops.

Terry

Only thing the $20 ebay shock brace bars are good for, MC braces.

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1314281953
TSE Biggest Brakes up front (11.75" 2-piece Wilwood rotor, Dynalite caliper)
1.8 caliper, sport rotor, M-tuned adapter in the rear
Wilwood prop valve
sport master cylinder

holy ---- this car stops good.

Awesome stopping power here
 

Do I dare say it?

I have converted my normal 1.8 brakes to 1.6 rear brakes on all four corners. Before you drop your jaw in disbelief, I have set my car up for drag racing, and am trying to reduce any rotating mass in anyway possible on the cheap.

Pics or ban! :D

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1314307799
Massive
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1314307799
comparison of 1.8 front to 1.6 rear rotors
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1314307799
view of extra long studs.

Cool.

haha, that is pretty crazy.

Please tell us about the rest of your setup. Turbo, V8, etc?

Reading late and into the morning I was like. "Turbo, Vtec."

Aaah whatever! :sadwavey:

lol

I just joined. Go to https://www.miataforumz.com/showthre...=newpost&t=290. There are a few pics. Car was N/A at the time.

Yea I'm going to put my new set on just before the open track day at Road Atlanta. Braking should be a lot better. The HPS is sorta simlar to stock. normal driving, about the same but when they build up some heat, i remember them braking better than stock. Either way I'm looking forward to the Axxis

(HPS) They are just OEM+ pads. I wouldn't really say build up heat and HPS pads in a sentence about how good they are. If by build up heat, you mean one hard slow from 70-20mph, then sure. but beyond that, they will get buttery!

HP+ will do good for a track day, it all depends on how hard you are on the brakes. If you are getting good with the braking style of hard-but-steady initially and then ease off as you get to/get into the corner, they probably won't last as long as you hope. I would say they are more like dual-purpose pads autocross/entry track.

after a while, they do get buttery i'll admit that.

in terms of my way of braking; i'd say i'm more of a late braker. i'll hold the speed as long as possible then let off and hold the acceleration through the corner

well, I think we all hold some throttle as we turn, not to be a DE recorder, but its good for stability. Its usually at or below maintenance throttle, although during DE you are usually going slower than the limit for a corner, so you can add more throttle but it will induce understeer and kill your fun (unless you are about to take advantage of some throttle-lift oversteer).

But yea, what I described is late braking (except you start later, and you stay hard on it for as long as needed).

Anyways, you get the idea, HPS will work ok if you are easy on the brakes, HP+ will do even better, but if you are driving the car and listening to your Instructor about proper braking form, I think you will find they are inadequate as you get comfortable at that particular track.

yup that's why i'm switching out to the Axxis :)

and yea to add on to what your saying, i'm going to have an instructor with me so i'm sure i'll be braking differently than what i'm used to

Front and Rear Subframes prior to installing in them in the 91 Mariner. Poly bushings, Tein Flex, Corrado 11 front rotors with Willwood Calipers. Sport Brake rotors in the rear with OEM Calipers. Torsen Diff with 3.6 R & P. These pictures are from two years ago when I was building the turbo car.

KMag

Just added my blank rotors, Axxis pads, 949 brake lines and Super Blue ATE brake fluid. I'm letting everything brake in properly. It I can already tell how much better the brakes are. Much better than my previous setup. I think I'm ready for auto crosses now.