Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums

Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums (https://www.miataforumz.com/)
-   Engine Upgrades (https://www.miataforumz.com/engine-upgrades-18/)
-   -   Coolant Re-route (https://www.miataforumz.com/engine-upgrades-18/coolant-re-route-300/)

skypilot 08-30-2011 05:57 PM

Coolant Re-route
 
Yep that old chestnut:confused:

Have decided that with my mods I may be heading into overheating teritory.
Na6,ms3,COP,seq ign and fuel boost tba. Average speed probably less than 55 mph in hot forests with power level essentially on boost at least 30-50% of the time. am also planning on roadracing but you guys have way more experiance then I on that.

I think I have read every post on MT and miata.net and am still undecided. In my Subaru rally car you Had to leave the thermostat in otherwise the coolant flowed too quickly to pull heat out of the radiator and block therefore causing overheating.

What have you done and why.


Heater in or out
thermostat front or rear
Bypass from rear port straight to radiator or back to mixer

photos or links based on actual experiance :) would be great.

Justin

FRT_Fun 08-30-2011 06:57 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I'm doing heatercore out, rear 3 way tstat. When cold it loops back to WP inlet, when warm, goes to radiator.

Although this is not a track car. Mostly fun weekend runs and what not.

miata2fast 08-31-2011 06:33 AM

I can not offer much advice on a reroute.

If you have to remove the thermostat, the best method is to gut the thermostat (remove the valve) and reinstall it. You will have a restriction that is somewhat similar to a stock thermostat.

sixshooter 08-31-2011 08:05 AM

The only time you could get away without running a thermostat would be if you were running a dedicated drag car. Your engine needs to reach and maintain "operating temperature" to allow the breakdown of acids that develop in your oil as a product of combustion. It also is necessary to become warm enough to cook off accumulated moisture in the oil and in the crankcase. Additionally, the clearances within your engine and the design specifications of the oil are both optimized for a particular operational range.

Because of the design characteristics of the engine, it is optimal to use a thermostat at the rear of the head and to maintain bypass flow through the heater circuit to the mixing manifold. As you know, a front mounted thermostat shortcuts the flow necessary to cool the rear of the engine and creates an unwanted gradient between the front and rear. The relocation of the thermostat can be done with or without the heater core in the loop. But the heater circuit coolant circulation is necessary because it allows the thermostat to accurately sense the operational temperature of the engine. Inadequate flow across the sensing side of the thermostat will yield poor and sometimes erratic regulation of temperature.



Heater core is optional and will not effect the outcome as long as flow through that circuit is maintained. Flow back to mixer is preferred because it is the point of greatest suction. If you go to the radiator instead, the circuit won't flow with the thermostat open and the heater won't work.

MF-Brain 09-01-2011 02:42 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by FRT_Fun (Post 3628)
I'm doing heatercore out, rear 3 way tstat. When cold it loops back to WP inlet, when warm, goes to radiator.

color blind?

FRT_Fun 09-01-2011 02:55 PM

WRONG SON

The one from the tstat to the wp should be BLUE, because it will ONLY flow there sub 180 degrees. Then that will get closed off completely, and will only flow to the radiator ;)

MF-Brain 09-01-2011 03:22 PM

its still "heated" water. but i get your point.

FRT_Fun 09-01-2011 04:45 PM


Originally Posted by MF-Brain (Post 3690)
its still "heated" water. but i get your point.

I know, I'm just being a dildo. :p

MF-Brain 09-01-2011 04:48 PM

me too!

FRT_Fun 09-01-2011 04:57 PM

I do like the blend job you did on the red/blue.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:15 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands