Ideas: Radiator/Cooling Ducts
 

Ok, so for all you guys out there with ducting, post up pictures (more details the better), lets try to follow a format and maybe we can help some people out with their setups:

Materials Used:
24x48 " Aluminum sheet (Lowes)
M-D Building 3/4" FOAM Weather Stripping (Lowes)
3/4" backer rod (Doesn't work well)
1/4" Silicone weather stripping (doesn't stick very well, could be the brand though)

Instructions
1) I removed the front air straightener and the radiator while I took my measurements.
2) Made a marking on the aluminum sheet to fit the front 3 screws at the bottom of the miata "mouth"
3) I hammered in my condenser mounting tabs (no A/C here).
4) Took measurements of the inside to split my ducting into 3 for future plans and then made plans for sealing the sides.
5) Cut, cut, cut. I used Tin snips as I ran out of cutting wheels for the dremel. Otherwise, the dremel is a good idea if you can got a steady hand.
6) Using weather stripping on the radiator sides and bottom, and fitted everything. checked for gaps, I have quiet a few uptop but I cannot address them until my intake idea is completed.

Pictures:
Here some rough pics. I will post more once I update the "design" or if their is a lot of interest. I also can't seem to get a decent side view without removing the bug catcher or the radiator...
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313810490
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313810490
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313810490
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1313810490

https://www.miataforumz.com/picture....&pictureid=170

Anyone have more info on this car? Its the slick auto miata, I am curious about how they did the ducting above the bottom plate/splitter

Is this modification being done for turbos or is this just for a stock miata to stop over heating. Just curious

this modification is for anything. its generally ducting done to the radiator to direct/force the air through the radiator rather than around it.

This is something I need to do on turbocar. On my ScanGauge I'll run around 220*, in 100* weather with AC on. I have no under tray. I have a new Koyo 37mm to install at same time. This is one of the reasons I've not driven car much this summer. When I pull front bumper to do it I'll post some pics. First chance I get I'll post the ducting on the Monster car. They did a real good job on it. David

We have two miatas both are 96 models no mods and this texas heat can be unbearable. One has heated up twice this year. The first time was a cooling fan stopped working and the second was yesterday when it sprouted a leak in the green/brown colored radiator.
If you have a good radiator,and good fans and hoses with no mods then the factory cooling will work just fine in any type of heat or cold.
We have been driving 3-400 miles on a weekend and it has not over heated at all.
The other one did heat until I went back to basics and replaced the radiator,I did not have the bottom cover on it,had a lisc plate stuck in front and it has not overheated one time since the rad install.
I can't believe Mazda would still be able to sell one car if the cooling system or the car had to be modified to keep it cool
I do agree if you make any mods at all then it may be a complete different story but staying stock just take care of what is on it,and if it starts over heating find out why something is going bad on the car

Thanks David, glad someone wants to participate. I am pretty sure if being a prison guard wasn't gangster enough, then having both a v8 and a turbo miata should complete the requirements.


Well, its true to some extent. The cooling system is adequate when you first get the car. but as the radiator wears out, debris gets stuck and blocks fins, which reduces cooling. I can also tell you that track conditions are probably more heat strenuous than texas heat (although stop n' go traffic will kill you without a fan). During my first track day, my car was overheating considerably, but when I would drive on the street she did just fine keeping the temp gauge down (I have the linear one in my sig). Soon as I got a new radiator, nothing overheats me now. not even stop n' go or track days at 102* ambient.

I'm here same as M.n, to learn and teach others what I know in 45 years of wrenching and racing ( drag ) a lil AX.

add me to the list. Not quite 45 years of wrenching yet ;)

I was 12, my brother was running NHRA stock ( set strip record ), and my father taught me how to do brakes. I watch carb rebuilding, didn't master that until 17. I was building engines by 17, as brother got back from SeAsia and worked in machine shop. I never could or was taught how to grind a crank. Still baffles the hell out of me.

I came for a fresh look and hopefully be able to share mistakes on the few problems we have had with our 96 cars,and learn from those that have way more knowledge about the miata than I do.
I have found that what may apply for this year car may not apply for that year car even though they look alike or are similar

The stock radiator is marginal. With the A/C running my '96 overheated in a large hot parking lot in Florida in the summer. The air was stagnant and the asphalt surface temperature was quite high. After about 20 minutes of sitting idling it had heat soaked enough that it couldn't keep the temperature from rising. Both fans were working fine. I upgraded to the 53mm Mishimoto shortly after that and all is well. The Mishimoto has more than twice the core thickness of the stock one that came out. When I bought it I wanted one that could handle the needs of the later upgrades to forced induction and light track days while retaining A/C.

Did you do any ducting to your radiator? If you did, then please share your handy work!

We have had both of ours in the same condition esp this year with the heat and with new stock radiators on them neither one has overheated to any degree you can tell.
Maybe the area or something with or without humidity,would have been great if you had a new stock radiator that you could have put in the place of the old one just to see if it would have worked.
Here is somethingto watch out for is if you have any not ready monitors crop up then the new radiator you have may not let the car get to that last degree needed to set them,so keep that in mind
I really think you just used it as an excuse to the wife for the future mods your gonna do.
Will be waiting to see how you sell her on needing the turbo, that should be good LOL

Just stock ducting and undertray currently.

mytwo...Would you call 230* hot, or even go so far as to say overheating? If you ever see the stock gauge move past 12:00, it is over 230*. Me I don't like over 210*.

Yes I would say that is hot and I do not like mine at 210 either ,but on both of ours I have checked them and the newer one I did it again today. When it is straight up 12 oclock the temp is at 204-206 a little past 12 and it is right at 208-210.
I think there are a lot of reasons why a different car may run hotter,Could be the difference in the gage ,the difference in the tool used to check the temp,the cooling system being over or under filled ,who knows.
You guys have been at this a lot longer than I have so have no intentions of doubting what any of you say . I have learned a lot on th emiata forums that was a lot of help when working on the first one
It is possible I am just fortunate that the two I have run cool ,do not have a clue as to why.
Just from reading other post over the years,I think a lot of info that was good for say a 90 1.6 is no longer good info for a 96 1.8
Kind of like the old days cars were made to run at a temp of 180-185, now the newer ones the closer to 200-212 they can get them the better they run
I understand if you are doing autocross which I know nothing about or if you are racing,or have a really heavy highway foot doing some cooling mods
It would sure be good before a person started doing some of the things that are suggested just do the basic stuff such as borrow a radiator ,check the cooling fans again make sure the right antifreeze to water ratio is correct
Track I apologise for hijacking your thread.

It is not my thread! Its a community thread for sharing ideas. I don't think this discussion is really on topic, but there isn't much going on so I think we can let it go until others post their ducting solutions.

As for stock cooling, its a heavily discussed topic and is one google search away from putting an hour of reading into it.

The move up in operating temperature was related to tailpipe emissions and not what was best for mechanical operation, longevity, or power.

would that not mean basically the same thing. Here is what I thought I as saying only I as taking the short route "Newer cars on the other hand commonly push the temperature much higher by intention, partly for fuel economy and partly for emissions control "

I just wanted to clarify and stress the point for future visitors to this thread that just because something was done a certain way by the manufacturer does not mean it was in the best interest of the car or its owner (should I have put some of that in bold type for the m.netters?). There are oversights and errors, such as our uneven coolant flow through the block, and there are necessary compromises, such as higher than optimal operating temperature to meet emissions.

/threadjack

I heart ducting.

What do you guys think of these? They're much cheaper, and are probably more available than the beatrush piece.

http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....r=NRG-DVP-2002

http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....r=NRG-DVP-2001

looks good, personally I am moving to hoodpins eventually so I can remove the latch and all that crap from the front. so that slot makes it pretty useless.

I actually adapted that NB panel to my NA. I wanted something that covered the radiator top, for aesthetics alone.

In addition to having an NA, I also have an aftermarket radiator that required modification to the panel to make the filler neck fit. I also had to use universal grommets to plug the mounting holes I didn't use.

I wouldn't say the slot makes it useless - the pressure loss across the radiator because of that one little slot has got to be pretty much negligable.

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1319142255

You can certainly improve the efficiency by using some universal seals & gaskets under the panel. This is pretty much just a fitcheck - I plan to remove and paint the panel the same color as the manifold and valve cover.

I tried using those rubber gromets in the un-used holes. The negative pressure created is so great, they eventually get sucked down through the hole and disappear.

Yea, I am just exaggerating really. HARDCORE! lol