Post your brake setups!
#12
#13
QFM race pads with 1.8 Front slotted rotors, dirty as but kind on rotors
QFM race pads with 1.6 std rotors
Stainless steel brake lines Goodridge
Rear adjustable bias valve
Dot 4 Motul fluid changed every meeting.(sponsor )
With our suspension setup the above works brilliantly on the track and is a lot more than needed on the road, if a tad bit noisy.
QFM race pads with 1.6 std rotors
Stainless steel brake lines Goodridge
Rear adjustable bias valve
Dot 4 Motul fluid changed every meeting.(sponsor )
With our suspension setup the above works brilliantly on the track and is a lot more than needed on the road, if a tad bit noisy.
#14
QFM race pads with 1.8 Front slotted rotors, dirty as but kind on rotors
QFM race pads with 1.6 std rotors
Stainless steel brake lines Goodridge
Rear adjustable bias valve
Dot 4 Motul fluid changed every meeting.(sponsor )
With our suspension setup the above works brilliantly on the track and is a lot more than needed on the road, if a tad bit noisy.
QFM race pads with 1.6 std rotors
Stainless steel brake lines Goodridge
Rear adjustable bias valve
Dot 4 Motul fluid changed every meeting.(sponsor )
With our suspension setup the above works brilliantly on the track and is a lot more than needed on the road, if a tad bit noisy.
#15
The bias valve goes in the rear line, adjusting the pressure going to the back, I believe that's what he's referring to.
Personally, I have TSE 11" wilwood/coraddo setup, HP+ in the front, Porterfield RS race in the back, 1.8 size. I pioneered the in cockpit wilwood bias valve, and have it mounted on the passenger side tranny tunnel, behind the shifter. Then I have ducts zip tied to the end links, pointed at the center of the rotor.
Next on the list is sport rear rotors with m-tuned brackets, all on my original 1.6 calipers. Hopefully that'll get rid of my slight drag on the right rear.
Personally, I have TSE 11" wilwood/coraddo setup, HP+ in the front, Porterfield RS race in the back, 1.8 size. I pioneered the in cockpit wilwood bias valve, and have it mounted on the passenger side tranny tunnel, behind the shifter. Then I have ducts zip tied to the end links, pointed at the center of the rotor.
Next on the list is sport rear rotors with m-tuned brackets, all on my original 1.6 calipers. Hopefully that'll get rid of my slight drag on the right rear.
#17
He's not talking about the physical location of the adjustment valve, he's referring to which brake lines the bias valve actually affects.
As I understand it, the bias valve on Miatas does, in fact, control brake bias by adjusting the relative power of the rear brakes.
As I understand it, the bias valve on Miatas does, in fact, control brake bias by adjusting the relative power of the rear brakes.
#18
^^What he said^^
You can replace the non-adjustable proportioning valve by the master cylinder with your Wilwood valve, or you can bypass and remove it,and add the Wilwood valve anywhere along the rear line.
You can replace the non-adjustable proportioning valve by the master cylinder with your Wilwood valve, or you can bypass and remove it,and add the Wilwood valve anywhere along the rear line.
#19
#20
Look at keith's targa build from 2008ish(?). Easy install with no brake lines in the cockpit which some may think of as dangerous. Splitime cobbeled together a cable operated version with the bias valve mounted in place of the stock unit. Easier to install, doesn't gain any room which my heat sheild appreciated.