99mx5's ARTech EFR build
 

I'm finally adding a turbo to my car. I bought a supercharger when I used to autocross. I then started to race on a track. Everything was great until I blew up the blower. I removed it then continued to race naturally aspirated. I eventually became a better driver without the boost, so now its time to add boost again.

So far I have added:

-Enhanced DIYPNP MegaSquirt
-Precision 600 intercooler
-ACT clutch and street disc
-TEIN Flex coilovers
-PWR radiator
-SS clutch, brake lines
-Carbotech XP10 and XP8 brakes
-Boss frog rollbar
-Custom CAI airbox
-DIY coolant reroute upper and lower
-PS delete with welded input shaft
-Ultrashield Rally Sport seats
-Simpson camlock harnesses
-Squaretop manifold
-COPS
-Walbro 255HP
-Other smaller details that I forgot

I contacted ARTech for SS coolant and oil lines, a top mount ramhorn manifold, 3" SS DP and exhaust with Magnaflow resonator and muffler. I purchased a BorgWarner EFR 6258 and sent it off to him.

Here are the pics of his progress...

I ordered a CXRacing intercooler kit. The plan is to have the pipes welded locally.

Here is my DIY coolant reroute to make space for the turbo and improve cooling on the track. I made the parts from a broken aluminum racing jack. The upper reroute improved cooing across the engine and the lower reroute makes more space for the turbo manifold.

More fab pics of the stainless 3" exhaust. It has a Magnaflow resonator and muffler.

Stainless braided teflon oil and coolant lines were made. I eventually ended up routing them differently due to space constraints.

I was getting close to receiving this kit from Abe. I know that there will be lot of small parts that I'll need to install it.

I have the following:
-wideband (I forgot to put it in the first post)
-intercooler piping with clamps and couplers/elbows
-GM temp sensor
-intercooler
-oil and coolant lines and hose

I'll need:
-mount intercooler
-temp sensor bung
-duct airflow
-make oil/coolant line bulkhead bracket
-heat shields for brake booster/manifold
-tubing for the blowoff valve
-wastegate actuator tubing
-larger fuel injectors
-drill oil pan (need drill bit and tap)
-oil catch can ?
-intake hose routing
-boost control ?
-??

I also decided to get fire sleeves for all the lines going to and from the turbo for extra protection.

I found them here: http://208.109.215.220/files/newprod.pdf

The turbo lines arrived after most of the turbo parts, due to being outsourced.
Here they are when I received them. Somebody got in the way as I was taking a pics.

All of the parts are steel. I used a steel BSP to NPT fitting for the block and a steel tee and a steel NPT to -4AN fitting for the line. The VDO oil pressure sender connects to the tee.

Here is a pic of the Precision 600 intercooler.

I painted the manifold with VHT ceramic paint and baked it to cure it.

The scariest part of the build was to drill the oil pan. I put a ring of tape on the bit to act as a stop so that I would not hit the oil pickup tube. I also greased the bit so that it would catch the metal shavings.

In order to keep the tap straight to cut the threads, I put it in a socket with a long extension. It worked perfectly. After I cut the threads, I used JB Weld to seal it to the oil pan.

I made a support bracket for the oil pressure sender. The turbo oil line is Tee'd off the engine block at the sender. Since it hangs away from the block, I wanted to support it for when the engine shakes from hitting the rev limiter. I used steel fittings for all the lines except for the turbo oil drain line.

The lines to the turbo connect with bulkhead fittings to make it easier to remove if needed. I also made a bracket for the fittings. The lines were also covered in fireproof sleeves.

I made a heat shield to protect the AC compressor from radiant heat from the manifold.

I made small L brackets to support the intercooler. Shaving Seconds welded mounting tabs to the intercooler end caps and I made aluminum angle supports to mount it to the brackets on the frame. I was lucky that it cleared the AC parts and fit under the bumper.

I cut the intercooler charge pipes to route them and had them welded. The only couplers are at the ends of the pipes. The intercooler clears the AC evaporator and drier and fits in the bumper.

The charge pipes were welded into single parts. The only silicone couplers are at the ends of the pipes.

I made a heat shield for the turbine to keep the engine bay cool.

I made a cold air box for the intake.

I bought Prosport MBC with ceramic ball.

I bought a Forge adjustable wastegate actuator and spring kit. I had to cut more threads on the shaft so that it would close fully.

I installed FIC 650CC injectors.

I bought a VDO boost gauge and replaced my LC-1 and XD-16 wideband with the new digital MXT-L wideband. I made a panel and installed them in the glovebox.

I bought a ball valve to close off the heater circuit so that only cool coolant goes through the engine.

I also installed a crankcase breather / catch can.

Here is the final engine bay pic after completing the install. It starts spooling at 2300RPM and pulls hard. It is currently limited to 10PSI. I already spent 2 weeks street tuning it. Next step is to track test and tune.

The last part I have to install is the new undertray.

Here is the first start video.

After street tuning for two weeks and getting cold start, idle and basic WOT run AFRs tuned. I took the car to the local track (Arroyo Seco Raceway) for a test and tune. It was a bit rich at the top, so I leaned it out and all was well. The car ran great for the rest of the day.

Here is a video of one of the race sessions.

I have the Forge wastegate actuator with the softest spring (the green 5+ PSI spring) directly connected without the MBC and I still hit 10PSI around 6600 RPM. After the test and tune day at the track, I set the ECU to cut fuel at 175kpa (around 11PSI). I'm hoping that it will allow me to have a little more headroom to hit rev cut before overboost fuel cut.

I also plan to try a softer spring in the MBC to delay opening of the wastegate until around 6 - 7PSI. Due to the quick spool, it's probably unnecessary, but I'm curious to see what the change will be. I'd expect to overboost even more, but its easy to test it.

I tested my MBC and found that the bleed hole is too big to allow the wastegate actuator to open. I will reduce the size of the hole and test again.

looks good, any dyno graphs yet?

OK, bookmarking this as I'm going with ARTECH Manifold and full exhaust as well. I spoke with Abe and will probably pull the trigger on mine in two weeks. He talked me into the EFR too!

Now, I have to go back and read every post. Thanks for the cliff notes this is awesome.

WOW, OK, will you be my friend? You have done everything I was thinking about doing. Albeit far better then I could even imagine. It's funny we have the exact same car down to the color as well.

So, about that CIA Box, think you could fab up a second one just like it for a mfz buddy and he'll paypal you some beer $$ maybe?

I was thinking of Bottom Mount ram horn, but I see you went with top. Doesn't it make it easier on plumbing to go bottom?

No dyno plots yet. There aren't any dynos near here that are worth going to. Next time a dyno day drive it planned, I may join the gang to get it done.

I wanted to keep my AC so the top mount was the better solution to make it fit. It was easy to route the charge piping down as it clears the AC lines with 2.75" pipes. In most cases PS is what gets in the way of routing the charge pipes downward.

I saved the patterns, so I can make more CAI boxes.

You can't go wrong with ARTech. Not only is his attention to detail great, but he stands behind his work. I went with a mild steel manifold and SS exhaust. I got the whole setup from him to ensure all the parts will work together.

I've found him to be very helpful even before I have purchased my manifold.

Getting ready for the first event this weekend.

I am pretty sure I read somewhere that you needed to maintain the flow from the back of the head to the mixing manifold even if you bypassed the heater. If there isn't circulation through the block you can end up with localized hot spots. Besides, now that you have your reroute completed you will benefit from the flow moving past the sensor side of your thermostat helping to keep the readings accurate.

Don't think he's going to have any overheating issues for a while.

Nice trailer setup.

I ran two laps at the track. I heard a clunk after completing the second lap and it was all over. The boost was limited to 10PSI, but the torque was too much for the stock rods.

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1332733104

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...6&d=1332738191

motor rebuild?