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-   -   Blaen, on BEGi's modern art (https://www.miataforumz.com/build-threads-46/blaen-begis-modern-art-623/)

blaen99 Jan 17, 2012 03:37 AM

Blaen, on BEGi's modern art
 
I figured that I'd finally get around to posting on MFz. May as well start here.

I received an item in the mail recently that necessitated this post. Voila, enjoy BEGi's modern art!

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1326593488

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1326593488

Well, it's not modern art - it's something I have plans up my sleeve for! We'll see how well it works out!

Anyways, I do believe it's time that I finally posted a build thread. As a disclaimer, I'm not running anything fancy (yet), mainly learning the ropes.

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1326593488
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1326593488

I am in the middle of moving to an intercooler-based setup as opposed to my current setup, and since I'm currently stuck untill Monday, it was a good time to start a build thread.

Currently:

Brainy-rebuilt MS2 and various GM sensors
Tokico Illumina's w/Swift Shocks
T25G Turbo@8psi
Coolant Reroute (Budget $25 reroute too, total cost yo! I removed the heater part of it recently though, working on a better way.)
RX7 550cc injectors
ARTech SS line kit (Yes, one line is rubber.)
Custom downpipe that required me to cut apart the shelf right behind the downpipe and re-weld it to a more appropriate spot.
BEGi ceramic-coated cast manifold
Brembo BBKs
Robbins top
F1 10lb flywheel + stage 3 clutch kit (Ew)

Soon:
COPs (LS2 perhaps, but I'd like COPs for wiring and TSE's kit makes me :drool:)
Intercooler (Waiting on the piping to show up in the mail)
ARTech SS line - replacing the last rubber line for a warranty replacement
MS3/MS3X and custom-built harness
Bodywork and paint
ACT clutch to replace the F1 stage 3 crap.

RedTurboMiata Jan 17, 2012 07:23 AM

Are you using the iat sensor for the mega squirt. Didn't see the afm. But welcome to the site

Mazduh Jan 17, 2012 08:14 AM

Please to a water to air IC setup! Would be way cool to see! :P

blaen99 Jan 18, 2012 02:26 PM


Originally Posted by Mazduh (Post 9120)
Please to a water to air IC setup! Would be way cool to see! :P

From what I understand, a water to air IC setup is a great deal more inefficient than a standard air to air - and it's a lot more complex. One of the biggest goals of my build is to remove all complexity that isn't absolutely necessary. Water to air would violate that goal.


Originally Posted by RedTurboMiata (Post 9119)
Are you using the iat sensor for the mega squirt. Didn't see the afm. But welcome to the site

Yeah, it's in pieces right now.

Track Jan 18, 2012 02:36 PM

Welcome welcome, look forward to seeing whats in store.

Dntlift Jan 18, 2012 10:51 PM

Welcome! your "not much of a setup" is more than most of us out there! Im jealous, I miss boost a lot nowadays...

blaen99 Jan 19, 2012 04:01 AM


Originally Posted by Track (Post 9240)
Welcome welcome, look forward to seeing whats in store.

Well, I should hopefully have a pretty substantial update shortly (I have a 2560 on the way, waiting on it to decide on intercooler routing) and another one in a few weeks. With as cold as it is out where I am, however, I am afraid to brave the garage for long.

Srsly, 5F and below temps blow in an uninsulated garage.

blaen99 Jan 19, 2012 02:10 PM

From a PM earlier today, I present...Blaen's ghetto reroute


Here's what I did for my reroute

Stock 1.6 neck (No, seriously. It's identical to the KIA neck, minus a sensor hole tapped.)
Front thermo housing (Optional) or blockoff plate (optional) or BEGi 1.6 blockoff plate (If no MS)
GM Water Hose
90 degree 3/8NPT
3/8NPT to 1/8NPT fitting
Heater hose, possibly additional NPT fittings

Retap front housing to 3/8NPT (Just run a tap down it real fast, 3/8BSP is 1 thread per inch larger than 3/8NPT)
Put your 3/8NPT 90 in front housing's sensor hole.
Put 3/8 to 1/8 NPT fitting in previous 90
Use a bit of thread sealant, put the sensor in the now 90'd hole. (BSP fits fine in NPT if it's male, but not if it's female.)

Test fit now-90ed front housing. It should fit fine with some clearance for the rear firewall. NOTE: The rear sensor placement is critical. You may have to replace several times, or even potentially do slight grinding on the sensor tap to get it all aligned.

This is the only hard part of the thing. Once you get the rear sensor-to-front-housing fixed, the rest is cake.

If you have a MS, you can put the rear housing on the front, then route the front to the heater via heater hose and retain the nipples for coolant underneath.

Also, if you have a MS, you can just block off the front at the thermostat still retaining nipples for coolant underneath, and then route from the cursed water plug, a...3/8NPT to 5/8NPT adapter w/nipples (I'm not sure, you'll have to recheck - I just welded pipes together rather than using NPT fittings), and to the heater.

If you are relying on the stock ECU, you -have- to get a BEGi block off plate, use the sensor in front, and route from the cursed waterplug as above.

YMMV, the BEGi looks awfully clean, although option 2 and 3 are basically identical to the BEGi and as a bonus get rid of the cursed water seal headache forever. I've tried all 3 of the above, you don't need the BEGi front blockoff plate if you have a MS. You can make the MS run your fans fine.
I'll see about pictures later.

flying_solo Jan 19, 2012 02:17 PM

what is the significance of the MS that allows you to negate the block off plate?

blaen99 Jan 19, 2012 02:21 PM


Originally Posted by flying_solo (Post 9395)
what is the significance of the MS that allows you to negate the block off plate?

On a 1.6, the stock ECU runs the fans from the thermoswitch in front. If you look above at my posts, you'll see the BEGi blockoff plate with the thermoswitch in it.

With a MS2 like mine, this is actually unnecessary. The MS2 can run the fans instead of relying on the thermoswitch like the stock ECU.


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