jtpaintballwdp

I have a build thread over on MT.net, but I figured Id get one going over here as well. Here is a link to the MT.net one if you were wondering about the boring history of the car:

http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=63441

I will try to keep this thread as up to date as possible, starting with some pics tomorrow after I wash the thing, its so dirty.

Installed items:
Brain Built DIYPNP MS full standalone
AEM UEGO Wideband
15x8 6UL Gen.2 with 205/50-15 Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1
Tokico Blues with Tokico springs (on the car when I bought it)
Hard Dog HCDD
1.8l Front and rear brakes
FM stage II clutch

Have in the garage:
Garrett SR20 t25 turbo

Short list:
ID725s
949 racing Wilwood 11" BBK

Medium list:
ARTech Manifold
ARTech Downpipe
ARTech Dump pipe
ARTech Exhaust
ARTech Oil and water lines
TiAL EWG
1.8l Torsen

Long list:
Vmaxx Xxtreme coils
Undecided bigger turbo
Spare 1.6l engine
Ebay Rods
other misc stuff for a mild engine build with stock pistons.

curly

What artech design are you going with? If you look up Slutz4's build thread on mt, that's the bottom mount I'm getting, with that same turbo. It seemed like a ridiculously easy hot side piping, which I like.

jtpaintballwdp

I havent decided yet. It all depends on if I want to remove my AC/PS. I have been driving around with the belt off the PS and am liking it so far, it only really sucks if I have to parallel park or something like that. I haven't had AC for 3 years or so (needs a recharge), but it does kind of suck when it gets stupid hot here.

curly

That's shitty. I forgot such problems exist. So your only option is top mount? He said side mount wasn't a real option, since it requires some difficult fab work to make it fit, hence why FM and BEGI's cast manifolds are so popular. Top mount kinda sucks the life out of me with the required kink in the downpipe, although I'm sure Abe could create an epic one.

Track

When you completely depower it, the steering will get easier (as you aren't having to move all that fluid which is still pressurized and ----).

If its not too bad now, then it will get easier. Admittedly parallel parking isn't too bad, but its not as easy thats for sure.

jtpaintballwdp

That's what I hear. I think I might just buy a manual rack. I don't do really do much track so I don't know if going thru the whole de-power process is worth it over just swapping a manual rack. Any opinions on this?

Track

Up to you really, I found looping the lines to be adequate. By adequate, I mean I have had no complains and no real reason to remove the rack and hack up the seals.

sixshooter

My de-power process was removing pump, reservoir, and brackets, then removing lines going into rack, unlocking the steering wheel by turning key, and pushing the wheel (with front end off ground) back and forth left to right as quickly as possible to force all possible fluid rapidly out of the holes. I pushed the tire back and forth until nothing was coming out, then looped the line one end into one fluid hole on the rack the other on the other. I also had one degree of steering caster removed (down to ~4 degrees) and everything is wonderful.

jtpaintballwdp

What did you use to plug the holes for the lines going to the rack? Do you notice any slop?

Track

cut off the ends of the lines, but leave an inch or two extra. Pinch it and fill it with RTV.

No slop for me.