Suspension How To: Power Steering Delete
#13
I then worked my away around by adding more spot welds while checking for striaghtness.
I cooled the part after each weld to minimize heat distortion.
I used a feeler gauge and spun it to check for straightness after each weld.
If it did warp, I straightened it before the next weld. Yes, I used a hammer and some creativity.
I cooled the part after each weld to minimize heat distortion.
I used a feeler gauge and spun it to check for straightness after each weld.
If it did warp, I straightened it before the next weld. Yes, I used a hammer and some creativity.
Last edited by Track; 12-25-2011 at 09:33 AM.
#14
I packed it with grease and reassembed the rack in reverse order.
I tightened the tensioner nut according to the factory service manual.
Tighten the tensioner bolt to 4.9 N/m then loosen 25 degrees
then tighten the locknut while holding the tensioner nut in place.
I tightened the tensioner nut according to the factory service manual.
Tighten the tensioner bolt to 4.9 N/m then loosen 25 degrees
then tighten the locknut while holding the tensioner nut in place.
Last edited by Track; 12-25-2011 at 09:33 AM.
#17
The new setup is definitely harder, but steering is much faster with less input. The steering is very precise with the solid input shaft. I had to turn the wheel less when parking the car. I definitely prefer it for the track. It has a lot more feedback.
The feedback is much more pronounced without the steering fluid dampening the bumps. I bumped my elbow against the seat when I hit the curb entering the gas station.
Check out the steering wheel movement in this video:
https://www.miataforumz.com/showpost...47&postcount=5
The feedback is much more pronounced without the steering fluid dampening the bumps. I bumped my elbow against the seat when I hit the curb entering the gas station.
Check out the steering wheel movement in this video:
https://www.miataforumz.com/showpost...47&postcount=5
Last edited by 99mx5; 12-25-2011 at 01:21 AM.