What Oil are you running?
 

NB thread has it thought i might as well bring it over here. So what oil are you running in your little toy.

Im running Valvoline Syn Power, but going to switch to mobil 1 synthetic or T6 Rotella.

Mobile 1 cause I could get it with a free mobile filter plus like half off the oil.

I've run Valvoline, now just Mobile one in all of the cars and trucks. Hey I'm from Texas ya gotta own a few trucks.

I'll probably use some QS synthetic 5w40

I can't quit the Rotella T6 5w40.

Same here

cheapest 5w-30 syth that I can find when doing a change.

currently it's Peak brand iirc.

Amsoil in all my vehicles

T6 here.

Torco V-Series 30 wt in the racing engine. They no longer make it but I bought out a distributor and have a 10 year supply.

Rotella T6 in the worn out street car. Mobile 1 full synthetic when I'm in a pinch.

Motul 300v 10W40

Why, cause they sponsor me and my cars and its free!!!!!!!!!!!

Besides that, good back up and testing, and its free!!!:D:D


Terry

i usually use mobile 1 10w30 and sometimes amzoil of the same weight

but what i would really like to see discussed here is exactly what weight you use and why
i use 10w30 cuz my car says so

whats up with this 0w30 stuff??
good idea or bad idea??

With your car I would stay with what your using. Mazda didn't run tight clearances back in the 90s like Nissan so you don't need 0 or 5 weight oil, but by the other situation is I don't know how cold or hot it gets where you are, that can also make a difference.
I usually run whatever the manufactures recommend in road cars, seeing as they make them and I'm sure they are a damn sight smarter than me. Race cars are a bit different, you need to analyze the temps and different operating conditions that the car is running. Me, I still use what Porsche and Motul recommend in our GT3's
Terry

5w30 mixed with one quart of 5w50

Oh, you fancy.

I found it on clearance at Big Lots and was hoping that it would help increase the oil pressure a bit. It really doesn't seem to have made much of a difference over straight 5w30.

Ditto.

Eneos 0w50, with a reroute and an oil cooler, I make good oil pressure even when its hotter than ---- and I'm running the piss out of the car. how does 50-60psi at 6500 sound? With M1 0w40 without the reroute I was seeing 25-35 psi under the same conditions.

Many manufacturers are advising the use of the 0w30 weight oils simply because of Corporate Average Fuel Economy laws. Thinner oil means less resistance and better fuel economy. It also means less protection for your engine due to decreased film strength. Engines that don't last past 150k miles don't bother car manufacturers either, because they sell cars and parts more often that way.

Miata engines are fairly rough hewn and probably need the cushioning a lot more than some others. I wouldn't dream of using 0w30 in one. That is my own opinion.

But we used to say that opinions are like assholes and riced Hondas. Everybody's got one and nobody thinks theirs stinks.

just started using rotello 5 5w30 or 10w/30 in one and valvoline in the other

To me these oil threads are not much use - it is essentially all anecdotal information - I use this, my friend uses that... with no objective evidence to back up any of the benefits that might be realized.

Oil selection depends on more than just the motor. Most notably - driving environment and driving style. Do you live in a hot climate? Do you drive ten minutes to work (operating temps never reached) or an hour each way?

The right oil for your particular application can start with a suggestion, but it should end with a test of your used oil. How do you know this particular oil is better for your motor? Do you get better mpgs? Are there wear metals present in the used oil? How long is your change inverval?

To answer these questions, I use Blackstone oil laboratory. For less than $30, they accept a sample of used oil and report back on what the deal is. In most cases, the ultimate point of this analysis is to be able to extend the interval. Most oils don't break down enough to get rid of them inside a 3000 mile interval. Some guys that have their oil analyized every time are sitting at 10,000 mile oil change intervals with no increase wear on the motor. Having consecutive analysis reports gives you a history of what's coming out of your motor - changes are easy to spot when you have before and after info.

A great site to learn more than you ever wanted to know about oil:

www.bitog.com

Yeah, but what oil are you running?

lol

Touche!

Winter - Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended performance
Summer - Shell Rotella T6

Getting 7K on my winter oil, 8K on summer oil between changes.

I agree with most of what jumborules has said.
We have a 97 dodge ram with over 300,000 on it .We still are only about 1/2 qt low when we do a oil change at 3000-3700 miles
We used valvaline for years and then went to the high mileage valvaline after 250,000 miles. The truck does not smoke and still runs strong
I ran the same thing in our first miata
On the second one I had seen a miata owner doing some test on the rotella and when we went to pick the second 96 up from having a motor put in ,I ask what they used and was told they used the rotella as well
I know a guy that did take the oil from his airplane strained it and then ran it in his cars. it was shell oil and he never had a problem with either of them
Years back I was sold on havoline and then penzoil and then quacker state
Found all of them would start sludgiung up badly.
I never saw the sludging with the valvaline and do not have enough personal knowledge to speak on the rotella
Since the topic was more what did you use than why do you use it I said the rotella

I've done UOAs on Amsoil High Zinc, M1, Valvoline Race, and Foremost and Amsoil did the best. Foremost had more of.the chemicals I care about, less shear, and its cheap.

T6 or mobile1. Whatever is on sale.

What is Foremost?

Big Lots has the QS 5w40 euro spec synthetic for $4 a quart-that's about half price. None left in Western PA-lol

QS is Quaker State?

either Castrol or Mobil1 full synthetic 5w-30, whichever is cheaper at the time it is needed.

Rotella Synth. I learned about it on M.net (where else?) and have been VERY happy with it!

Just picked up some Rotella T6 5w40

Yes:)

I use this:

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1320337204

Im now running Shell Rotela T6 10w-40
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1333819076

i thought that stuff was 5w40? they change it up, or this a different weight version now?

M1 0w-40 for the last few changes with WIX filters. When I was turbo I was running AMSOIL SS 10w30

Mobil1 OW-40. Because I use it in all my vehicles so I only have one oil to buy; the others do need 0W-xx, the Miata doesn't because it's never run in winter.

I'll dispense with the anecdotal evidence and go with some science; as a summer oil, it meets API for multigrade xW-40, straight 40, 50 and 60 at 212F, and meets ACEA High Temperature / High Shear test conducted at 302F (API does not require oil to meet a HTHS test but has developed a standard for it; Mobil1 meets the HTHS 302F API standard for xW-40 multigrade, and straight 40, 50 and 60 wt).

Rotella T is nice oil, they don't publish it's specifications but do publish it's ratings; it does meet the Japanese 4-stroke Motorcycle Oil standard, which implies good HTHS performance.

Right now I got Castrol Syn 10w30 in my miata, and 5-w30 syn in my 94 z71 truck, Miata seems happy with the 10-30, I use to run 10w30 in my truck but switched to 5w-30 I i noticed it is quieter on start up.