flying_solo

iTrader: (1)

So, I've tried searching the internet and can't seem to find someone else with my issue. But, I can't be alone here.

I have the M-Tuned Coolant Reroute and a Jacking Racing header with DEI Titanium Heat Wrap. On very hot autox days ambient temps of 93F+ I'm not seeing my fan kick in when my car hits 204 as seen on my ultraguage. I'm pretty sure, what's going on here is the EGR pipe or radiant heat off of my header is heating up the thermalswitch or Aluminum M-Tuned housing itself and causing a failure of some sort in the thermalswitch. What I don't understand is, why does the Temp Guage still work if it's a combine switch/guage in the NB.

When I drive the car home and let it cool down, the fans kick on again when the car hits 204F. This is why I think heatsoak is killing my thermalswitch. Has anyone else experienced this and found a working solution? I've contemplated wrapping the EGR in heat tape, wrapping the sensor (not as practical, covering the M-Tuned housing or creating a heat shield of some sort.

I'm getting tired of the heat issues with my miata. It's just mine that seems to be cursed. Granted, I too start failing in 92+F on blacktop after a few hours as well, but why doesn't the rest of the miatas at the autox suffer like my poor NB?

Thanks for the help.

Adam

flying_solo

iTrader: (1)

also going to post to the mturbo.net

sixshooter

I was thinking one sensor runs the fan and another controls the gauge display.

The stock exhaust mani has layers of heat shielding over it and under it. Header wrap is helpful but likely not adequate.

My exhaust has header wrap but here is my dipstick:




Sensors just go bad sometimes, too. How hot does it get without coming on?

flying_solo

iTrader: (1)

I didn't let it get even close to really getting hot. I saw 206F and just ended for the day. Both times the car started heat soaking at the same time the driver was. Odd thing was on the way home, my temps were 195 - 197 for about 40 minutes on the highway before settling back to their normal 190.4 to 192.2. That's why I think the M-TUned aluminum housing probably got pretty warmed up and I really suspect that my water temps were probably reading a little higher then reality.

I ordered a new sensor from Rock auto and am going to heat tape wrap the EGR. If that isn't enough, I'll build a shield. On the 99 - 00 Six there is only one 3 wire probe that does both at the same time.

I removed the A/C last winter at the same time I put a nice shroud and SPAAL fans on my radiator. I never bothered to wire up the A/C fan side. I'm going to do that so I can hit the A/C switch and kick the fan on at the track. Then I won't care about the thermalswitch anyway.

I think I'll wrap my dipstick after seeing yours! I have a ton of this tape.

Redcap

Haven't had this problem, but my EGR was always wrapped in header wrap, not because it was hot, but just because the EGR was so damn close to the M-Tuned Coolant Route, the Silicone Hose was practically laying on top.

I've had an overheating problem on and off for like 1.5 years now on my 99. Problem was that I only drive the car in good weather and to work, which is 3 miles away. My driver's side fan finally gave up the ghost, but the CEL would return P0118 (Engine Temp Circuit). I'm wondering if all that time it was the fan slowly dying and cuttin gout. I'm getting new SPAL fans as a replacement, but in the meantime, I spliced the pax fan in as the main fan for daily driving and it's been doing fine.

On a side note, I purchased SPAL fans from MiataRoadster.com. Holy ----, his prices were cheap, and that still included paying shipping AND state sales tax. Before you buy any models, make sure to check out the specs at SpalUSA.com. The rule of thumb is that straight blades are more efficient. But if you're interested in all out greater CFM, I found that SPAL sometimes uses a stronger motor in the curved blade versions than their straight blade for the same application size. I emailed into SPAL last night and they confirmed this for the 11" 12V Low Profile Pullers I ordered. So read the specs closely before assuming the straight blade is always the way to go.

sixshooter

206*F is well within the normal range under a load and does not indicate a problem.

Hooking up the second fan to come on with the temperature controlled first fan is a fine option, imo.

For the summer, a mix of 70% distilled water and 30% coolant will yield the highest thermal efficiency. Tap water is corrosive to steel, brass, and aluminum, and contains substances that attack rubber seals and hoses. It also has a lower boiling point than distilled water. Coolant contains additives designed to mediate these effects but it is more helpful to simply not introduce them unnecessarily.

Just be sure to increase your coolant ratio before winter!

flying_solo

iTrader: (1)

yeah, I shut it down at 206 because I knew the fans should have kicked on at 204 and did not. I shut her down after my last run when I couldn't get her to drop below 206 between runs. Better to stop before a problem occurs.