What did you do to your NB today?
04-30-2012, 07:31 AM
#122
The Linear Mod is nice isn't it?
I didn't do much to the car, but I did fix my broken power antenna mast. While doing so, I found about 1/2" of water standing in the saddle underneath the plastic cubbie. The antenna drain hose looked solid. I may put some zip ties around the ends and monitor. My car is not water tight right now. Find wet seats and water in my trunk, WTF, the only dry part is under the hood.
I didn't do much to the car, but I did fix my broken power antenna mast. While doing so, I found about 1/2" of water standing in the saddle underneath the plastic cubbie. The antenna drain hose looked solid. I may put some zip ties around the ends and monitor. My car is not water tight right now. Find wet seats and water in my trunk, WTF, the only dry part is under the hood.
04-30-2012, 11:43 AM
#123
MFz Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Cicero, NY
Posts: 14
With Torque running on my phone, I checked out how the gauge moves with the OBD-II interpreted temperature... very cool. I have to wonder, though, if I've found something through having the linear mod done?
When the car comes from cold, as it warms up it slowly walks to about 3/4 up the coolant gauge range - an OBD-II read 215* or so (217* during lunch just now) - then very suddenly and quickly drops down to the thermostat's setting around 190*. Is this normal? Do I have a sticky thermostat or an air pocket?
When the car comes from cold, as it warms up it slowly walks to about 3/4 up the coolant gauge range - an OBD-II read 215* or so (217* during lunch just now) - then very suddenly and quickly drops down to the thermostat's setting around 190*. Is this normal? Do I have a sticky thermostat or an air pocket?
04-30-2012, 12:15 PM
#124
Mine runs kind of warm when it sits and heat soaks, but 217 is a bit high. Your fans didn't kick on around 204 and drop the temps? Wonder if you do have a sticky t-stat. It's a cheap easy fix to try out.
07-16-2012, 08:05 AM
#125
Dropped the tranny and put in a new FM clutch. Without a lift, it's a royal pain in the ***. Now I need to decide what to do with the exhaust. The mid pipe/cat is all rusted out and so is the muffler. Do I go all in and do header and full exhaust? Leaning towards HELL YES.
What I'm left to decide is which exhaust. Enthuza is all the rage, but the roadster sport 3 is in stock and I can get it all from Good-Win this week.
What I'm left to decide is which exhaust. Enthuza is all the rage, but the roadster sport 3 is in stock and I can get it all from Good-Win this week.
07-16-2012, 12:50 PM
#126
Featured Miata!
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 187
Well this was yesterday but... (as seen in my build thread)
Since I'm waiting on some parts to come in, I took care of some little detail stuff that I felt was necessary. The parts I did have were sexy but one of them didn't match...
The cast finish on the turbo wasn't doing it for me so I started to level it out for polishing. I'd like to end up with a decent mix of polished and black finished pieces under the hood.
Then I figured why not take some of the bs casting marks and lettering.. So I proceeded to grind those away using an aluminum bit on my die grinder.
I felt like it was a shame to get rid of the "GARRETT" name but it just didn't look clean enough to me at this point.
I stopped and left "ARR" to add some humor to the job. I think it's appropriate for the build.
After the heavy cutting was done with the aluminum bit and a number of sanding discs I moved on to a 220 grit wet sandpaper by hand. The polish by hand was getting to be a real pain so I made my own out of folded paper towel and an old sock zip tied around an old sanding disc.
Shes not finished but it's coming along really well.. ARR...
On the Engine-removal side of things, I stopped to test fit my beautiful BEGi intake manifold. Looks like everything is about right here. They tapped the NPT fittings on the bottom side to keep everything looking clean and it certainly does..
I tossed the car up as high as I could achieve on jack stands to make the removal easy.
Shes naked and ready to come out. I'd have pulled it already but a friend of mine borrowed my cherry picker so I'm held up at this point.
At a stand still on the engine removal, I pulled the valve cover and started to prep it for the -8AN lines I'll be using on my new breather setup. I flipped it and removed the baffles.
Then drilled it and tapped it for my 3/8 NPT to 8AN adapters.
I also enlarged the internal passage for more bandwidth.
Cleaned up and I was out for the night. I'll be back tonight to pull the engine.
Since I'm waiting on some parts to come in, I took care of some little detail stuff that I felt was necessary. The parts I did have were sexy but one of them didn't match...
The cast finish on the turbo wasn't doing it for me so I started to level it out for polishing. I'd like to end up with a decent mix of polished and black finished pieces under the hood.
Then I figured why not take some of the bs casting marks and lettering.. So I proceeded to grind those away using an aluminum bit on my die grinder.
I felt like it was a shame to get rid of the "GARRETT" name but it just didn't look clean enough to me at this point.
I stopped and left "ARR" to add some humor to the job. I think it's appropriate for the build.
After the heavy cutting was done with the aluminum bit and a number of sanding discs I moved on to a 220 grit wet sandpaper by hand. The polish by hand was getting to be a real pain so I made my own out of folded paper towel and an old sock zip tied around an old sanding disc.
Shes not finished but it's coming along really well.. ARR...
On the Engine-removal side of things, I stopped to test fit my beautiful BEGi intake manifold. Looks like everything is about right here. They tapped the NPT fittings on the bottom side to keep everything looking clean and it certainly does..
I tossed the car up as high as I could achieve on jack stands to make the removal easy.
Shes naked and ready to come out. I'd have pulled it already but a friend of mine borrowed my cherry picker so I'm held up at this point.
At a stand still on the engine removal, I pulled the valve cover and started to prep it for the -8AN lines I'll be using on my new breather setup. I flipped it and removed the baffles.
Then drilled it and tapped it for my 3/8 NPT to 8AN adapters.
I also enlarged the internal passage for more bandwidth.
Cleaned up and I was out for the night. I'll be back tonight to pull the engine.
07-24-2012, 11:35 PM
#128
MFz Regular
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 142
Installed FM Frame Rails and a Studio Skid Plate (STUDIO | Law of Awesome) to protect the oil pan and subframe. After the subframe got bashed in from some crap on the freeway, the price of replacing it was pretty horrendous.
Regarding the Frame Rails, I've seen the lines routed in different ways by lots of people. Anyway, I didn't want the bottom fuel line bolt catching either. I used the same 3/8" drill bit used to drill the frame rail holes. I slightly opened up the fuel line bracket holes. It's literally like a fraction of a millimeter to shave out and you can mount it directly to the bolts on the chassis after flattened out. There's an extra fuel line bracket sitting right in front of the fuel filter as well, just under the plastic shield. I took that one for a total of three. Lines look nice and clean, straight from the factory with no fiddling or risk hitting any bolt ends.
Regarding the Frame Rails, I've seen the lines routed in different ways by lots of people. Anyway, I didn't want the bottom fuel line bolt catching either. I used the same 3/8" drill bit used to drill the frame rail holes. I slightly opened up the fuel line bracket holes. It's literally like a fraction of a millimeter to shave out and you can mount it directly to the bolts on the chassis after flattened out. There's an extra fuel line bracket sitting right in front of the fuel filter as well, just under the plastic shield. I took that one for a total of three. Lines look nice and clean, straight from the factory with no fiddling or risk hitting any bolt ends.
07-25-2012, 09:52 AM
#130
Featured Miata!
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 187
Last night I was able to get the rest of the base coat down and spray the clear - This engine bay is going to be some serious car ****.
Still waiting on some parts that have been ordered:
Still waiting on some parts that have been ordered:
- BEGi S6 VBAND Manifold
- Boundary Engineering Oil Pump
- BEGi VBAND Downpipe
- Misc AN lines - AN Coolant Setup for the GT30R