new to the mazda game!
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Whats up guys!
Just picked up my first Mazda the other day and thought i would jump on and say hello. Im a long time Nissan guy and had planed to use this as the DD while my coupe is under the knife but im starting to think this might be the next project when my s13 is all said and done! a little back story, I blew the motor in the coupe up a few weeks ago and decided it was time to stop playing around and go big. after a few days i finally decided to sell the wheels off the coupe and pick up a friends miata as i would rather have a driving car then a blown up s13 with some shiny wheels. :rolleyes: the car is in pretty good shape, needs a few small things like a driveshaft, tires, and new speakers but that's all pretty easy. As of right now my old plans are to lower it a little more ( the rear is already lower then the front :confused: and change out the ds and maybe get a hardtop. Anyways a little about the car. 1991 1.6L B6 180k miles d2 coilovers Konig candy 15x8 polished wheels APR carbon fiber mirrors Racing Beat intake and catback https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343828976 https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343828976 https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343828976 https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343828976 |
Welcome to mfz, nice looking ride you got there. How about some pics of the s13 you keep mentioning?
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The 240sx isnt anything real special as of right now, i got it bone stock about a year ago with the sohc KA in it and its been through at least 3 stages of adding parts, taking them off and replacing them with better stuff I did a dohc swap about 6 months ago and the water pump finally went out on the way back from the beach last month and warped the head and dropped a valve.
Right now the list looks a little something like this. 1989 two tone 240sx 210xxx on the body all OEM Silvia front megan track coils. s14 5 lug hubs s14 LCAS's front and rear 50mm front and 60mm rear extended studs mog rca ball joints pretty much all the arms are aftermarket white line sway bars Q45 fronts and s14 rear bb kit. DOHC swap OBX header isis rad with fans def e-fan control 3" test pipe with stock exhaust arp main and head studs. loads of other stuff i just cant think of right now im sure. i have had more wheels then i care to think about so i wont list those. https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343831431 https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343831431 https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343831431 https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343831431 https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343831431 and the only pic i have of the motor for some odd reason. https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1343831431 Plan is to build the hell out of the KA and slap a gt30 on it, wire tuck, new coils, wheels, and paint. |
Very nice =)
Loving the Miata that you got! Also best of luck on rebuilding your s13, what did you do to it that blew the motor? |
Welcome to this easygoing forum. Miata needs moar turbo.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 17496)
Welcome to this easygoing forum. Miata needs moar turbo.
Maybe it was just a bad tune?? :ohnoes::ohnoes: |
Little bitty turbo at 14psi :notequal: big turbo at 14psi, or even 7 psi. Power depends on CFM of airflow, not pounds of backpressure in the intake tract. Contrary to popular understanding, boost pressure is a measure of inefficiency of flow of the system, not volume or mass of air flowing through it.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 17526)
Little bitty turbo at 14psi :notequal: big turbo at 14psi, or even 7 psi. Power depends on CFM of airflow, not pounds of backpressure in the intake tract. Contrary to popular understanding, boost pressure is a measure of inefficiency of flow of the system, not volume or mass of air flowing through it.
"15 psi is 15 psi no matter what size your turbo is. Some turbos (small ones) can produce 15 psi of pressure from 2.3k to 4k rpms where after 4k it starts to run out of its "efficiancy range" and than your just blowing really hot air(bad) and you haven't maxed out your engine. A big turbo will spool up and create 15psi of boost at say 4k all the way to red line, efficiantly(meaning not really hot air) or even 20 psi of boost because bigger turbos need more exhaust power to spin a bigger compressor. bigger compressor, bigger pump capaple of producing higher boost." Taken from this discussion : small turbo vs. big turbo. which makes more power? (2nd try) - RX7Club.com |
Lots of awesome stuff on RX7Club.com. I've learned enough to really screw up my FD :)
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https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1344450813https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1344450813
Compare these two compressor maps carefully. The concentric curves (ovals) delineate changes in efficiency, or the ability to move and compress air without turning the mechanical energy into heat. Higher efficiency means more power and less heat waste are created. Operationally, you ideally want to function in the middle island of greatest efficiency, but our engines are not constant speed so they trace a line through the graph during operation. At a pressure ratio of 2, which is roughly 15 psi, the greatest efficiency that can be achieved by the 2554 is ~70% and most of that operational area is between 17 and 24 lbs/min of airflow. Remember, airflow is what makes horsepower because air mixed with fuel makes horses. Twice as much air equals twice as much fuel equals twice (roughly) as much power. If we look at the second map, it has a sizable island of 76% efficiency at the pressure ratio of 2 line, which is considerably higher efficiency. And it maintains 75% efficiency or greater at an airflow of around 23 to 32 lbs/minute of airflow, a much greater amount of air. So we are seeing 25% more airflow at the same pressure with 7% greater efficiency. That is a win-win. It also means the air volume that is generated is cooler which is also beneficial to make more power in your engine. The same 2871 is capable of maintaining its 75%+ efficiency all the way up to ~39 lbs/min of airflow and do it at up to 26 psi. Maintaining efficiency as the pressure and flow gets higher is where the engineering really makes the difference. Digging into the big versus little comparison, you can see that the 2554 at a PR of 2 (15psi) is hitting 24 lbs/min maxed out in the 70% efficiency range, but at the same efficiency level the 2871 can hit 24 lbs/min at a PR of 1.5 or about 7.5 psi -- Same airflow, same efficiency level, half the pressure. So we have a bigger turbo at half the pressure making same horsepower. This is why guys who know a thing or two think other guys are idiots when they ask "How much boost you runnin'?" without knowing how large the turbo is. Knowing how much boost someone is running without knowing anything else literally tells you nothing. Does this help at all? |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 17565)
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1344450813https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1344450813
Compare these two compressor maps carefully. The concentric curves (ovals) delineate changes in efficiency, or the ability to move and compress air without turning the mechanical energy into heat. Higher efficiency means more power and less heat waste are created. Operationally, you ideally want to function in the middle island of greatest efficiency, but our engines are not constant speed so they trace a line through the graph during operation. At a pressure ratio of 2, which is roughly 15 psi, the greatest efficiency that can be achieved by the 2554 is ~70% and most of that operational area is between 17 and 24 lbs/min of airflow. Remember, airflow is what makes horsepower because air mixed with fuel makes horses. Twice as much air equals twice as much fuel equals twice (roughly) as much power. If we look at the second map, it has a sizable island of 76% efficiency at the pressure ratio of 2 line, which is considerably higher efficiency. And it maintains 75% efficiency or greater at an airflow of around 23 to 32 lbs/minute of airflow, a much greater amount of air. So we are seeing 25% more airflow at the same pressure with 7% greater efficiency. That is a win-win. It also means the air volume that is generated is cooler which is also beneficial to make more power in your engine. The same 2871 is capable of maintaining its 75%+ efficiency all the way up to ~39 lbs/min of airflow and do it at up to 26 psi. Maintaining efficiency as the pressure and flow gets higher is where the engineering really makes the difference. Digging into the big versus little comparison, you can see that the 2554 at a PR of 2 (15psi) is hitting 24 lbs/min maxed out in the 70% efficiency range, but at the same efficiency level the 2871 can hit 24 lbs/min at a PR of 1.5 or about 7.5 psi -- Same airflow, same efficiency level, half the pressure. So we have a bigger turbo at half the pressure making same horsepower. This is why guys who know a thing or two think other guys are idiots when they ask "How much boost you runnin'?" without knowing how large the turbo is. Knowing how much boost someone is running without knowing anything else literally tells you nothing. Does this help at all? It definitely gave me a better idea of turbos, but I had to read it twice haha :D |
Originally Posted by djshoester
(Post 17576)
This was an awesome post! Where did you find the diagrams?
It definitely gave me a better idea of turbos, but I had to read it twice haha :D |
Originally Posted by RedTurboMiata
(Post 17580)
Lots of time spent researching turbos trying to decide which one you want, And the people on miataturbo
Though it seems like miataTurbo is not as active as a forum..or perhaps that is just me not really checking out the forum fully yet. I am bouncing between this one and miata.net doing research =) |
The compressor maps are all over the internet. It just takes time studying to determine how to read them and how to apply what you are reading to what you are trying to accomplish.
Miata dot net is pretty vanilla on good information. The real meat and potatoes are found on miataturbo.net but they aren't kind with new guys asking the same basic questions over and over. They have a good DIY FAQ and they expect you to read it. There is more good info on that forum than anywhere about performance and power. They work on their own cars and tend to be innovators. They want the cheapest way to do the best job every time and that usually means DIY. I'll try to point you in the right direction if you have any questions. You can always post them here and we can point you in the right direction or answer it outright. |
Yea, I enjoy Miata.net for all the questions that us new guys keep posting up cause it helps my research =) I also like this forum for the threads that are already here and I would say your guys' vetern inputs haha
I will definitely look into miataturbo now for more research and DIY things. It is super exciting to just learn all these things. Thanks for all your help and willingness to help! |
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Hey another Nissan to Mazda converter. Your coupe was so clean man, nice fitment, Bricks and my favorite two tone combo... well yours kinda is, lol. Here was my Hatch:
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1345880145 My Miata is also Red, as yours is. Lookin' forward to seeing where this goes. I didn't catch when skimming your thread, are you going to be drifting your Miata at all or will it be strictly DD. |
Miatas don't make nearly as good a drift car as the 240 because of the very short wheelbase and the lower polar moment of inertia. They are therefore much more difficult to maintain a drift angle with and are more suited to rapid changes in direction (road coarse). It can be done but the difficulty level is much higher than in a car more suited to the task. Even the 2nd gen RX7 was much better for drifting because of it's longer wheelbase.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 17760)
Miatas don't make nearly as good a drift car as the 240 because of the very short wheelbase and the lower polar moment of inertia. They are therefore much more difficult to maintain a drift angle with and are more suited to rapid changes in direction (road coarse). It can be done but the difficulty level is much higher than in a car more suited to the task. Even the 2nd gen RX7 was much better for drifting because of it's longer wheelbase.
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