boosted Miata dies, often.
01-22-2012, 06:51 PM
#31
Red To Go
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 2,600
the car is in fort Bennings GA. my little bro is an Army medic. hes a not too bad with cars. I'm a little better but have never been down there to see the car so i didnt get a chance to work on it. As far as motor building goes i know the basics. I've rebuilt a bmw I6 twin cam, (that was a nightmare) and a 66' big block 428 ford but both were naturally aspirated, new to the boost game. Really I do thank you guys for all the help for me and my brother. I'm getting him to sign up on both forums as i will be out of the country until roughly September. Feel free to razz on him as much as you like.
edit: hes on both forums as remlap08
edit: hes on both forums as remlap08
01-22-2012, 11:17 PM
#35
Red To Go
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 2,600
ps i would definitely investigate that offer to have the guy in huntsville give it a once over maybe work on it depending on your budget. he will at least be able to give you a list of things that need fixed.
01-23-2012, 11:35 AM
#37
Red To Go
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 2,600
ive been following the post over there, hes knowledgeable, i think he helped me get mine straightened out about 6months ago, through the forum of course but still the guys over there have alot of knowledge to share with you if they feel like it/ like you at all.
02-25-2012, 04:18 PM
#39
MFz Regular
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: royal oak mi
Posts: 111
heres just a stupid thought but one ive ran into. The ground strap going to the head.
Once upon a time many years ago i was working with some buddies at thier tuner shop building a turbo miata... there were 3 of us working on it all at different points.. they built the engine and put it in and I did most of the turbo setup. Once it got on the road once in a while it would just all of a sudden shut down with no rhyme or reason.. under various conditions. Well i tracked down the ground strap to the head never got anything more than a finger tighten and every once in a while would lose contact.
Just a suggestion... dont have much experience with the piggybacks and or thier problems but i do like the kiss method for diagnostics... keep it simple stupid... check the easy stupid ---- before jumping to expensive conclusions and throwing unneccesary parts at the problem.
Once upon a time many years ago i was working with some buddies at thier tuner shop building a turbo miata... there were 3 of us working on it all at different points.. they built the engine and put it in and I did most of the turbo setup. Once it got on the road once in a while it would just all of a sudden shut down with no rhyme or reason.. under various conditions. Well i tracked down the ground strap to the head never got anything more than a finger tighten and every once in a while would lose contact.
Just a suggestion... dont have much experience with the piggybacks and or thier problems but i do like the kiss method for diagnostics... keep it simple stupid... check the easy stupid ---- before jumping to expensive conclusions and throwing unneccesary parts at the problem.
02-26-2012, 11:03 AM
#40
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Tampa, FL; Lake Jackson (Atlanta), GA
Posts: 1,902
The plastic brake master cylinder reservoirs are known to melt easily from radiant heat of turbine housings and downpipes. All brake lines and junctions should be shielded to avoid fluid boiling and subsequent loss of brakes that can commonly occur between 212* and 500* depending on the state of your fluid.
I would also consider eliminating the additional point of failure in the oil feed line to the turbo by going to one line instead of two. The longer one might reach by itself if routed between the second and third intake runners and over the top of the valve cover. Just beware that the steel braiding will chew through anything it contacts just from vibration. That counts for its current routing as well.
I thought there was an inherent problem with how the AEM FIC tricks the fueling but maybe I'm confusing it with the SAFC.
I would also consider eliminating the additional point of failure in the oil feed line to the turbo by going to one line instead of two. The longer one might reach by itself if routed between the second and third intake runners and over the top of the valve cover. Just beware that the steel braiding will chew through anything it contacts just from vibration. That counts for its current routing as well.
I thought there was an inherent problem with how the AEM FIC tricks the fueling but maybe I'm confusing it with the SAFC.