Doppelgänger

You can also not be aggressive with the timing down low to reduce spool time and/or run a smaller exhaust diameter.

loki34

Ok so you all understand what I am looking for, boost coming on in the upper rpm scale, so how do you control where the boost starts and how to make sure you don't run out of boost to soon (before rev. limiter). I don't think I want to wait until 4500 as that would make a small power band but 3000 to 3500 should be about right.

FRT_Fun

From what I've seen the 1.6 diff can grenade under stock power.... so you might want to just plan on swapping to a 1.8 diff. Honestly it's not that hard of a swap... and an open one can be found cheap.

Personally with a bit of effort you can roll into boost using your foot. Just don't use it like an on/off switch.

RyanRaduechel

You could do a boost by gear setup or a two stage boost controller.

Doppelgänger

3k rpms is pretty low...that is where my 2560R jumps to life.

TorqueZombie

^same, On the hilly roads around here it's almost hard to stay our of boost. It's got a nice linear output though. Little throttle "little power"/heavy throttle bigger power.

y8s

most electronic boost control systems (like the megasquirt for example) have RPM vs. TPS boost curves. You can decide exactly what RPM you want what boost.

Riggy

I have a T3/T4 setup on mine which originally ran 14 PSI on the 1.6L rear. It's a street/drag car and doesn't spool well till it's above 3600 RPM. Comes in nice and smooth afterward though. I tried to baby it as long as I could. Very few hard launches. Even with this, I still tore the guts out of a 1.6L rear end. You should plan on upgrading with a power adder regardless. The 1.6L rear just cant take the stress for very long.

You may be able to extend it's life some with good boost control or throttle modulation but I would say it's still on borrowed time.

loki34

Yeah I understand the rear diff is a weak link and plan on an upgrade eventually but have to build towards the final goal a little at a time. Right now I'm working on the research and making a list of what is needed to reach my goal. A mild upgrade of the suspension is the first order of business as the car is stock and I know there's better performance available there. Will then look into engine management (probably MS) upgrade then gather the needed parts for FI. Going to have to search some of the other forums then asked questions to head in the right direction for me.

Full_Tilt

Making it "lag" is not going to make it any less likely to break the diff. It will just break at 5k rpm instead of 3k rpm.

In fact, I would argue the counter-point that a larger turbo will be harder on the driveline because it will come into power all at once. In other words the derivative of the powercurve will be greater at that point.

This idea is a very common misconception. People think that big turbos make you hook up and make the car easier to drive. Ive had people tell me they wanted to go for a bigger turbo because their wife/gf will drive the car and a small turbo would be dangerous because it will spool so quickly.
This is just not true. A small turbo will spool up quickly but isnt putting down as much power. A big turbo will spool more slowly and then suddenly light up the tires and put you into a tree.