Lessons Learned : The untold stories of do-it-yourselfers

Old Aug 25, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #11  
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It takes less time to remove the engine with the transmission attached than it does to remove either the engine or transmission independently.
Old Sep 6, 2011 | 09:52 PM
  #12  
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It's a begi s3 kit but I've got it running 18psi at 85%DC (12:1AFR) on 600cc injectors on a stock 97 bp. I tuned it myself and it goes like crazy, just need a stronger clutch.

The other figured it out myself stuff is great like a track capable solution to the begi two piece dp.

I'd probably go with a hydra if I was doing the ecu over again instead of MS.

I'd expand FRT's comment about Audi's to include all German cars.
Old Sep 7, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #13  
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If you put an aftermarket flywheel on a Miata, the pressure plate bolts that came off the old flywheel will likely not work on the new one. And when you are doing the swap on Sunday it is more difficult to find the right bolts at a store.
Old Sep 7, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #14  
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When wiring... it's best to actually make a complete diagram before you start building the harness.

Also trace It's good to print out the diagrams and highlight everything a certain circuit touches to make sure you won't be messing up other things.
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #15  
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Study install instructions like cramming for a final and picture doing it in your head prior to tackling a project. Reading them for first time as you do project will result in re-doing some steps multiple times, and cursing.
Old Sep 14, 2011 | 08:44 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
When I removed the elevated pads from under the rear seat mounts to lower the seat I elected to drill out the spot welds that held the pads down and chisel them loose from the floor. Don't do that. Just hammer the pads flat to the floor with a sledge.
I haven't heard of hammering them flat. odd idea, but it might just work. The two methods I have heard are cutting them out (dremel/angle grinder?) or drilling the spot welds with a spot weld drill bit:
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=CDB

just posting about this to provide people with options.
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #17  
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Wires should be soldered and heat shrink insulated...PERIOD.
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:44 PM
  #18  
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^ overrated lol

Don't drill into the oil pickup when drilling the oil pan for oil return. Get a short stubby stepped drill bit and it should work great

with that said though, I probably would have just removed motor as step 1 if I could do it over again. It was really nice to have the motor out of the car, knocking out the turbo install, clutch, injectors, coolant reroute, was all so easy and painless
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #19  
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^agreed. if I ever get around to a turbo/coolant reroute, I will probably just pull the engine and do all the work at once. maybe even a mild rebuild.
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by aaronc7
^ overrated lol

Don't drill into the oil pickup when drilling the oil pan for oil return. Get a short stubby stepped drill bit and it should work great

with that said though, I probably would have just removed motor as step 1 if I could do it over again. It was really nice to have the motor out of the car, knocking out the turbo install, clutch, injectors, coolant reroute, was all so easy and painless
lol... "And then...as the prophecy foretold, fail ensued."

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