Remember_54

BTW what you think of this shocks setup


for example this kit using following:

Fornt - 8 kg/mm; 450 lb/in
Rear - 6 kg/mm; 337 lb/in

sixshooter

The shocks will ride rough because of too much low speed damping. They will not be comfortable and controlled. There have been hundreds of comparisons done on shock dyno machines and years of street and track use to develop the Bilsteins and the Xidas. Have you ever seen a shock dyno graph?
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ips-5-3-12-pdf
http://www.flyinmiata.com/pdf/V-Maxx...eak%20Test.pdf




Monotube shocks are better at controlling the wheel movements without hysteresis and cavitation of the shock oil than twin tube designs.

Most "sport" shocks are designed to ride rough to make them feel sporty to the driver, but that is uncomfortable and actually causes the tire not to stay in contact with the road very well. Instead, a good performance shock dampening curve will be digressive. That means as the shock travel speed increases, the shock resists less so that the car is not upset and the ride is not harsh. This allows the tire to follow the variations in the road surface and maintain grip without causing the ride to be rough inside the car. The slower speed shock movements will remain very firm to keep the car from "floating" and keep the car even with the surface of the road so that the full range of suspension movements on each corner will be available to follow the surface, both in compression and in droop travel.

Most cheap sporty suspensions are designed incorrectly for real performance. Most will vibrate too much over rough roads and will bounce like a basketball on a bumpy road. A good performance suspension will let you drive faster over a rough road or track without losing control.

The 450lb springs are a good rate for the front, but the 337lb are too much for the rear with those front rates and would make the car oversteer (want to spin). You would do best with 450 front/ 300 rear or 400 front 275 rear.

If you don't want to spend as much as the Xidas, and don't want to make your own coilovers from separate parts using Bilsteins and Summit springs, you can buy the FM V-Maxx Classic Stage 2 Suspension Kit. The V-Maxx is a good shock and the springs are 390lb front / 260lb rear, which is stronger than stock and should be a good ride. The suspension kit also comes with upgraded adjustable sway bars, which is good. The kit is $869 for everything. That kit has a very good reputation.

The V-Maxx:

The FM sway bar kit:

Remember_54

thanks a lot for your answer, with your post i really can make my miata drive as i want, this is very good post, because now i got 3 options, first is very expensive and most effective way to go, second V maxx, and third is Bilsteins.

that very good information thanks a lot!!

also i was think to install differential lock which one u suggest?
also want to maybe change or maybe not my gear ration, so then i can make 0 to 100km/h very quick rather than have 180km/h max speed

sixshooter

What differential are you using? The standard differential in 1.6 liter 1993 cars is very weak and fails often at 100hp. The '94-05 cars with 1.8 engines had very strong differentials and would take 300hp no problem. The 1.8 differentials also use larger CV shafts between the differential and the wheels.

Remember_54

I use 1.6 (very well for 2 years with 250HP) as I mention previously we do not have Miata in our country, I’m only one owner, so maybe is good way to find used 1.8 from USA?

sixshooter

2 years at 250hp on a 1.6 differential is very unusual. Maybe it has been changed already? Or you are just very lucky?

Good used 1.8 differentials and CV axles are common here. The rear wheel hubs must also be changed because the spline shaft on the CV axle is larger to handle more torque. Limited slip differentials are a little more expensive but there are many around. I will look for one for you.

Please post pictures of your engine, turbo and car. Tell me details about your car and engine.

The rear differential gear ratios in the Miatas were 4.30, 4.10, and 3.90. Other gears available to buy are 4.44 and 3.63 but you can only get them new from Mazda. What ratio do you have and what ratio do you want?

Remember_54

so sorry for late reply, just did not have time to post anything

regarding photos, sorry got only one picture

those what i installed:

FM II Hydra turbo system
Flyin` Miata turbo single exhaust race pipe (cat replacement)
Flyin` Miata supersize clutch Happy Meal
OEM Shifter Boot
AEM gauge/wideband kit
Magnecor 8.5mm spark plug wires
NGK extended reach spark plugs V-power Price:

looking for good Water/Methanol Injection System

my ratio is factory now, how can i check ?

sixshooter

All 1993 cars had a 4.30 axle ratio. The 1.8 cars were available with 4.30, 4.10, and 3.90.

Are you running 300hp on a stock engine? Usually forged steel connecting rods and forged pistons are required to reach those power levels. The stock connecting rods are soft and usually bend under loads above about 250hp. Chinese forged rods with good ARP bolts are available online for about $300 and nobody I know about has ever broken them at any power level.

That's a nice car except for the wheels!

Remember_54

I)) that`s why i want to change them, i just found ferrari gt250 replica kit i think i will go with that kit.

for the engine i would say that i have 250 hp, but in some time i need to definitely look to update engine, i still need to calculate how much it will cost to update 1.6 or maybe go for used 1.8 or maybe it will be better to go for 2.0 flymiata engine, but that mean that i will need to change turbo kit what i do not want to do. because i will not be able to sell my one.

what you think is there a point to update 1.6 engine, maybe try to find used 1.8 and update it? or there are not big difference? to upgrade my factory 1.6 is most cheap way to go and i can still use my 5k turbo kit my turbo kit.


Regarding axle if my have 4.30 then there are no way to go, i do not need top speed, i need acceleration. so i just need to find 1.8 axle with 4.30, and i think i will definitely need better transmission my one on 140km/h going till 5000rpm

sixshooter

Since you have the 1.6 engine already it will work fine. The kit you have is good for 230whp at 12psi, and that is probably all you should do on the stock connecting rods and pistons for safety. The stock connecting rods are soft and will bend if you make too much cylinder pressure. The stock pistons are cast aluminum and not forged aluminum and are not as strong.

You can change the connecting rods to these and get these 8.8 to 1 compression ratio forged pistons and you should be able to go to 300whp without any trouble.


I'm not sure I understand. Do you want more rpm at 140km/h or less rpm at 140km/h?