Simple guide to a miata trunk subwoofer
12-07-2011, 11:00 AM
#41
MFz Lurker
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oxford, NC
Posts: 9
I don't post around here much, and I'm not going to waste my time quoting the previous posts.
y8s, I believe as a Moderator of the forum you could have handled this alot better. Why don't you explain to the member why his choice is sub-par? Your outburst and insults portray you in a negative light, even if you are correct. You did post a link, but failed to include spec's beyond that in your post. Such as...
Start with roughly these specifications for the subwoofer:
Fs: between 20 and 30 Hz
Qts: between .25 and .35
Vas: between .35 and 1.00 cu.ft. (10 - 30L)
# Smallest Length and Width: 11" x 11" x 8-1/4" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Tang Band): 14" x 14" x 5-3/8" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Dayton HO): 12" x 12" x 7" outside dimensions
# Whatever you want: Just make sure the total volume is between 600-650 cubic inches. You can take the outside dimensions and subtract 1.5 from each (two .75" thick walls) and multiply them all together.
Source: http://fixjunk.com/index.php?title=Miata_Trunk_Sub
Next time try informing the member before insulting. I've already got plenty of sites like that to choose from.
y8s, I believe as a Moderator of the forum you could have handled this alot better. Why don't you explain to the member why his choice is sub-par? Your outburst and insults portray you in a negative light, even if you are correct. You did post a link, but failed to include spec's beyond that in your post. Such as...
Start with roughly these specifications for the subwoofer:
Fs: between 20 and 30 Hz
Qts: between .25 and .35
Vas: between .35 and 1.00 cu.ft. (10 - 30L)
# Smallest Length and Width: 11" x 11" x 8-1/4" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Tang Band): 14" x 14" x 5-3/8" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Dayton HO): 12" x 12" x 7" outside dimensions
# Whatever you want: Just make sure the total volume is between 600-650 cubic inches. You can take the outside dimensions and subtract 1.5 from each (two .75" thick walls) and multiply them all together.
Source: http://fixjunk.com/index.php?title=Miata_Trunk_Sub
Next time try informing the member before insulting. I've already got plenty of sites like that to choose from.
12-07-2011, 12:37 PM
#43
BAMFr
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 1,787
With that said, we all have to enjoy our time online, or its pointless. His under title description is a joke, for fun, not serious, laid back, or whatever. It is not a representation of this forum, nor is it an indication of the community's attitude.
12-07-2011, 01:16 PM
#44
Moderbator
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: DC Metro
Posts: 257
I don't post around here much, and I'm not going to waste my time quoting the previous posts.
y8s, I believe as a Moderator of the forum you could have handled this alot better. Why don't you explain to the member why his choice is sub-par? Your outburst and insults portray you in a negative light, even if you are correct. You did post a link, but failed to include spec's beyond that in your post. Such as...
Start with roughly these specifications for the subwoofer:
Fs: between 20 and 30 Hz
Qts: between .25 and .35
Vas: between .35 and 1.00 cu.ft. (10 - 30L)
# Smallest Length and Width: 11" x 11" x 8-1/4" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Tang Band): 14" x 14" x 5-3/8" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Dayton HO): 12" x 12" x 7" outside dimensions
# Whatever you want: Just make sure the total volume is between 600-650 cubic inches. You can take the outside dimensions and subtract 1.5 from each (two .75" thick walls) and multiply them all together.
Source: http://fixjunk.com/index.php?title=Miata_Trunk_Sub
Next time try informing the member before insulting. I've already got plenty of sites like that to choose from.
y8s, I believe as a Moderator of the forum you could have handled this alot better. Why don't you explain to the member why his choice is sub-par? Your outburst and insults portray you in a negative light, even if you are correct. You did post a link, but failed to include spec's beyond that in your post. Such as...
Start with roughly these specifications for the subwoofer:
Fs: between 20 and 30 Hz
Qts: between .25 and .35
Vas: between .35 and 1.00 cu.ft. (10 - 30L)
# Smallest Length and Width: 11" x 11" x 8-1/4" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Tang Band): 14" x 14" x 5-3/8" outside dimensions
# Thinnest for the Dayton HO): 12" x 12" x 7" outside dimensions
# Whatever you want: Just make sure the total volume is between 600-650 cubic inches. You can take the outside dimensions and subtract 1.5 from each (two .75" thick walls) and multiply them all together.
Source: http://fixjunk.com/index.php?title=Miata_Trunk_Sub
Next time try informing the member before insulting. I've already got plenty of sites like that to choose from.
I might also have to post some graphs. People love graphs.
12-14-2011, 10:33 PM
#45
MFz Lurker
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lake Jackson, TX
Posts: 13
I'm all for this idea. At some point, I'd like to add some bass to my Miata, but am leery of having the trunk rattles being more audible than the actual bass frequencies. And I do like graphs.
Last edited by jnshk; 12-14-2011 at 10:35 PM.
02-15-2012, 09:13 AM
#46
MFz Lurker
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 43
Trying to get back on track...
My headunit-less stereo, 99% complete. Sub enclosure is same as what MFBrain posted earlier, but in 8" form. Sounds great for all forms of music even at 80+ with no top, but I'm not trying to win SPL contests. No real rattles mainly due to no top & I keep all bolts tightened properly. Not pictured is Polk db 6.5" in doors & Audiocontrol EQ/Line Driver in dash.
My headunit-less stereo, 99% complete. Sub enclosure is same as what MFBrain posted earlier, but in 8" form. Sounds great for all forms of music even at 80+ with no top, but I'm not trying to win SPL contests. No real rattles mainly due to no top & I keep all bolts tightened properly. Not pictured is Polk db 6.5" in doors & Audiocontrol EQ/Line Driver in dash.
02-15-2012, 10:43 AM
#47
looks nice. I'd like to redo my box to get a bit more volume inside it and cut a hole that's not oversized for the sub I picked....but I'm soooooooooooo lazy.
but I agree it gets the job done for sure.
but I agree it gets the job done for sure.
02-15-2012, 10:49 AM
#48
BAMFr
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 1,787
Trying to get back on track...
My headunit-less stereo, 99% complete. Sub enclosure is same as what MFBrain posted earlier, but in 8" form. Sounds great for all forms of music even at 80+ with no top, but I'm not trying to win SPL contests. No real rattles mainly due to no top & I keep all bolts tightened properly. Not pictured is Polk db 6.5" in doors & Audiocontrol EQ/Line Driver in dash.
My headunit-less stereo, 99% complete. Sub enclosure is same as what MFBrain posted earlier, but in 8" form. Sounds great for all forms of music even at 80+ with no top, but I'm not trying to win SPL contests. No real rattles mainly due to no top & I keep all bolts tightened properly. Not pictured is Polk db 6.5" in doors & Audiocontrol EQ/Line Driver in dash.
02-26-2013, 05:38 PM
#50
!!!! I NEED TO POST !!!!
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Vinton, ia
Posts: 1
i have a 1991 mazda miata with some after market speakers behind the seats, want to get some subs and amp for my car but dont know what to get :/ help! dont want somethin thatll mkae my car bounce but would like something that if i want it nice and loud i can turn it up if i want but have it jus as an extra boost most of the time. ideas/links/prices thanks!
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