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Old 09-13-2017, 12:03 AM   #11
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Update time!

So college started and hit me pretty hard but i've had some mods in the pipeline for a while and every weekend I make sure to wake up early to get some mods and maintenance done before I go to work.



First up were these bad boys. Hella Sharp tones. They sound more melodic than the Super tones and they're very loud. I was tired of getting cut off by rich suburban moms in their BMW X5s and Audi Q7s on the freeway. I thought for just a second "Straight pipes or new horns" and then I realized how much I like general living in the car and so I bought the horns. $25 on amazon.



My fender-side soldering setup. I used crimping for some connections but I prefer splicing by soldering. Its my trusty Trak Power TK-950 that I bought when I got serious into electronics. 850 degrees Frankenstein baby.



Splicing into the stock horn wire to run it to the new replay. Using automatic strippers makes this a heck of a lot easier as you just let the tool move the insulation away instead of pulling and flexing with basic strippers. I like to splice and wrap a really long part to make sure it's a solid connection. I also like to use lots of flux to make sure everything gets a good flow of solder. Like paint, prep in soldering makes all the difference.



So my car didn't come with ABS so I had an un-used fuse location. So I stretched out a .250" female spade connector to fit the fuse tab in the fuse box. It was already powered with 12v and this allowed me to run it under the fuse box for a super clean look. I then ran it through some grommets in the firewall and through the wiper cowl. Red wire coming off is the power wire before I hid it.



So the proper way to wire in the 2 horns to prevent burning your car to the ground is to power the new relay with a fused 12v source and trigger it with the stock horn wire. Green wire goes to the new horns, red is power, yellow is trigger and black is ground. really easy stuff.



Hidden in the stock horn locations. Mine came with only 1 on the right side, but a quick run with a tap into the left hole cleared out the rust and revealed nice threads that I could use. I also hit the support with a wire wheel on a dremel to ensure a good ground for each of the horns.



She also DESPERATELY needed a upper and lower shift boot. The upper was non-existent, the lower barely hanging on by a sliver of rubber. I ordered this from Moss back in July but they were getting new ones in stock.

Let me take a sec to give some love to the guys at Moss Miata, I got a notification that the shifter rebuild kit shipped and it was at my doorstep the next day.

I also got the upgraded one with the 5X Racing shifter bushing.

While I was in the turret I changed the fluid and I changed the transmission fluid too. In went some Motorcraft XT-M5-QS magic unicorn tears sauce. While I can say I feel a difference, the most obvious one is in cold shifts. So much smoother. And doing freeway on-ramp pulls the syncros just seem to pull it into gear.



Also got washer nozzles that spray instead of squirt. Easy $10 on amazon for both.



Quick comparison. Easy 5 minute install.



Got one of those 3rd brake light flashers and a 3rd brake light LED bulb. I was cruising with some buddies and he had one of the flashers and the moment he hit the brakes I was like "WHOAAAA" it caught my eye. Labor day sale on SuperBrightLEDs meant 15% off, I figured why not it's $5 and the bulb is like $12. They sent the wrong bulb though so i'm waiting on the new one before I install. The old one is out but I just used the trunk light for now. Its a 921 for the 3rd brake light but a 194 fits.



Carbon Miata speaker covers also came in.



Mmmmmm more vintage looking ish. Looks so clean and nice. I went to ace and bought all new M4 stainless hardware to mount it up too.

Until next time guys!
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Old 09-24-2017, 11:09 PM   #12
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Another update time!

Some quick and easy things to keep her running and happy... and make my life a little easier.



Since my dipstick handle was broken (like most Miatas out there) I have been living with it for a bit. I saw this pop up in my eBay recommended and its cheap and super easy to install. Its 3D printed.



Shoutout to Greg Parts on eBay for 3D printing a ton of cool stuff for the NA Miata. He also sells shift *****, sun visor blanking plates, antenna plugs and various other little knick-knacks that you didn't realize you needed.



My 3rd brake light bulb was out so I bought an LED from Superbright LED's and they sent me the wrong one. The one listed most places is an 1157 but my car took a 921. I also installed the 3rd brake light flasher.



Here's a pic of my rolled fenders. I trimmed the fender liner back a bit and made a little rubber bumper type thing on the top to keep larger debris out of it. I have tons of clearance all around so even in hard cornering I have zero rubbing. It was super easy.



Beauty shots because she got washed and looked really nice in the sun...





Doesn't this pic just make you wanna go for a drive? That open door is so inviting.
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:00 AM   #13
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Thanks! Keep the updates coming!
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:56 PM   #14
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Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

It's the last day of break for me and I decided to hustle up and get some mods done on Molly before winter rolls around.

I found this and laughed for quite a while:





This was taken by my good friend Matt Mchugh at the last Cars and Coffee of the season. Check him out on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/McHughPhotography/
Tell him Alec with the red Miata sent you.

I was also in the OSU Alumni Parade and I learned that roll bars are quite handy for hanging banners and or T-shirts for parades.





And I wired her up to wink during the parade

I did a few little mods just to keep things working.



The clip for the interior door handle kept popping out, so I just used a die and cut some M4 threads and used a locknut to keep it secured. Now it shouldn't pop off anymore forcing me to roll my window down and open it from the outside.



Also put in a Garage Star radiator panel. My hood cable ended up breaking and so I ordered the latchless panel. The hood pins work just fine by themselves.

And for anyone wondering, yes I do have a new Yonaka radiator waiting to go in. My old radiator is looking really crusty and is not long for this world.



Also got these "Crystal Clear" turn signals from eBay, really cleans up the look of the car. I also took advantage of Black Friday deals and ordered all new exterior LED's to brighten things up and make it safer. Diode Dynamics ran a 20% off Everything sale.



Also got this sweet plate frame from a friend in Japan. He ended up sending me like 20 for my whole group to rep.

And he threw in this...



A proper JDM Suichuuka. I took some 5K grit paper to the shifter stalk to polish it up and it make it look a little nicer because of the gap. Ended up looking really shiny.



Seeing how good the 5k looked I cut a strip and re-did the indicator and wiper stalks to a higher level of shine. Also got chrome gauge rings to really tie everything together.



I also found this little $10 speaker amp on Amazon. It's listed as a Kinter 12v amp, and it takes a little 12v banana plug. I had an old 12v speaker power brick around and I just chopped the plug off. I used an wiring harness from the old broken radio and tapped it into 12v, grounded it to the metal frame and connected the speakers to it. The little box on the right is a ground loop isolator that gets rid of the noise and humming. There's a little ring around the volume **** that's lit by an RGB LED while its on. It's not the greatest in terms of quality and power but its quite nice and gets reasonably loud. Took less than an hour to install.

Thats it for now guys, but there's a massive update coming soon...



Take a guess as what those are...
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:41 AM   #15
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More quick updates!

I did a full exterior LED conversion for safety. Diode Dynamics was running a Black Friday deal and I had to jump on it.

It had the usual stuff, LED brake lights, reverse lights, etc.

But for the front turn signals I decided to go with the Switchback version of the 1157 Bulb:


Thats a quick YT vid I made showing off the switchback feature. It's awesome for early morning when its light enough you don't need your full headlights but dark enough you want some form of illumination.

The LED conversion required me to modify the stock flasher relay to prevent the dreaded "Hyberblink" that usually arises with LED conversions.

You *can* use those load resistors but they add massive amounts of weight and radiate a lot of head and also draw a lot of power. All things you do not want in your little roadster.



Step 1 was finding the flasher relay under the dash, and its this rather large beige box with the large connector going to it. It's not like the other relays under the dash, it just pulls straight down. I found it easier to take the box off the mounting clip and then pulling the connector off.

Once you have it off the car and onto a work bench its just 2 clips to take the cover off and pull the circuit board.

The resistor you're looking for is labeled R1 but the label is hard to see as a coil is in the way.





That's what you're looking for, and my shots are post-mod. Stock I think its a 6.5ohm?

You want to replace it with a 1Meg Ohm, or 1 million ohm resistor. 1/4 watt is fine (that what the stock one is rated for), but I used 1/2 watt just to be safe.

Next up was LED headlights. I originally wanted GE Nighthawks or TruckLites but I wasn't willing to pay $400 for a pair.



My friend showed me this company on amazon called OPT7, and he installed a set of their bulbs on his 350Z and I quite like how bright and crisp they are.

So along with them I bought the Hella H4 Conversion and set to replace the stock sealed beams.



The great thing about the OPT7's is the COB LED is at the correct height, similar to an H4 halogen and so the projector and reflector pattern matches perfectly. They also have a fan on the back that keeps everything cool.

I left the rubber cover off the back of the Hella housings as the LED's have an o-ring seal on the face and on the tube of the LED



They come with these ballast/ controllers that really have no space inside the housing without pinching something, so I took an idea from a Ken Auto YT video and mounted them to the outside with some 3M double sided tape.


But, whatever you do DO NOT MOUNT IT TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUSING!!!!

Mount it to the side that is inside, closer to the radiator. Ask me how I know. The limiting beams on the interior of the housing are on the outside, and if you mount it to the outer side of the housing, the beam will grab the connector and crush it. I crushed my H4 connector and fought for like an hour trying to figure out why the driver's side light won't move all the way up. Luckily I had a spare connector, and 20 minutes later and I had a new H4 connector on it and it was all fine.

I have to say, it's bright as floodlights for soccer/ football fields. But its a very good beam pattern, throwing a ton of light down the road but also having a good pattern to the side of the car. I can finally see more than 50 feet in front of me! Its also a nice, cool white hue versus an amber of a normal Halogen.
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