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Old 04-30-2018, 03:58 PM   #21  
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Oh lord here we go...

The ol' girl decided she didn't like me today. I came out this morning to not 1 but 2 puddles under her...



One tasted sweet so it was for sure coolant, and considering the radiator looked like this, I think it was safe to say I needed a new rad.

The other puddle was indeterminate though...



But as I pulled the car out of the garage to back her in for easier maintenance, I tasted the second puddle and it was acrid and bitter. AKA brake fluid. Time for a new slave cylinder!

Then as I was backing the car into the garage the radiator decided it had enough and the lower tank blew a crack and started spewing coolant. Shut her off and pushed her the rest of the way in.

So step 1 was to break everything down and make room for the work to come. Passenger side wheel off, LRB tray off, etc.

New master and slave cylinder went in, along with a 949 clutch line.



I have to say bleeding the clutch took longer than the install. The most frustrating part was getting the old clutch line out.

The new stuff feels slightly lighter than before but smoother, with better control. No idea why though.

Aaaand since my AC never worked I pulled out the lines and the condenser. with the AC lines removed it gave me a lot of room for a FM lower rad hose.



Pulling this abomination out was certainly fun:



And since everything was going very nicely I decided to do a little nip and tuck on the engine bay. Old washer bottle was cracked so I pulled it and put my Mishimoto coolant res back there, charcoal canister delete and I moved the MAP sensor and evap solenoid to more discrete locations versus the bracket previously there.

I swapped the Rad with an aluminum Yonaka unit, and because it had no weatherstripping on the fan shroud I used some basic stuff from Autozone.



If you need a new upper rad hose, don't go to the parts store for it. The Dayco hose listed is too big of an ID, order one from your dealer or from your favorite online retailer.

As I took her through a heat cycle though I found a leak dripping from the trans tunnel... Definitely coolant. Turns out the oil cooler line on the back of the head was weeping. So I pulled the clamp, pulled the hose and cut the damaged end off and put on a constant tension clamp.

On a long drive today I was blessed with these temperatures:



Previously I was looking at cruising temps of 205*F-210*F Now with the condenser out of the way and a more efficient rad she's running ice cold.

And thanks to the cramped space behind the head not only did this cost me the money for the parts but also the skin on my hands...



I'm heading to Formula Drift Atlanta in 2 weeks, I wanted to swap the rad anyway before she sees 100 degree heat just to be safe.

Until next time!
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:45 PM   #22  
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A little quick update,

The Dayco B71638 that AutoZone, Advance, etc will sell you doesn't fit very well. The ID is too big.

Ended up ordering a OEM hose from my local Mazda Dealer



Part number for those who want it:



Aaaand one last bleed before she's ready to go for good.



If you don't have a spillproof funnel, get one. I'll wait.
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