Don't think you need the Hiem joints?

Nope- I just bent the ends to meet flush with the surfaces. Heim joints are good when a 'joint' is needed- they allow movement. I don't expect this to have much travel.

noice! you can get joints at mcmaster for the price of a finger...I am sure you can get some cheaper at another online retailer if you do find the need for them at a later date.

Just thinking with expansion and contraction of the metal as well as the load from the engine, that there may be a little movement and thus the reason for the Heim.

Meh. The point is to stop the movement. I guarantee the heim was used for construction simplicity.. No custom fabrication required if they use that style of joint.

Hmm, again good point. That's why you are the magician!

Ran into another M6 this weekend... Sucker ;)

lol, you should rename your car the ego killer

Miata was featured. I'm very excite. :naughty:
https://www.miataforumz.com/mfz-featured-miatas-53/dem768-miataforumz-com-march-12-feature-785/

And my clutch just showed up :)
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1331319372

FM L2 Clutch looked like the best choice for me.

I had the FM level 2 Clutch shipped overnight so I could beat the piss out of the car on Sunday (we had a nice Sunday ok).

The clutch showed up and looked just like any other clutch. At this point I have my doubts but at the same time I'm giving props to the guys at Flyin Miata.

It came with a piece of metal that was foreign to any other clutch job I've done before, so against my every natural man instinct- I read the little piece of paper that came with it. Whew - Turns out it's just a cover for my clutch engagement switch. I wont be using this because it will interfere with my flat foot shifting (and i'm not soft - I can deal with pressing down the clutch pedal to start my car).

Looks like any other ACT clutch - Just painted purple. I was excited that the power capacity of the clutch was rated at what it was because I really didnt want to go with a Pucked clutch. I like to drive my car because it is not a "racecar". I have AC, power windows and power steering. No need to be warming my clutch up and chattering it around town.

I think they want you to put stickers on your car.
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1331561976

Pulled the little guy in for his latest appointment with Dr. Snap-on.
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1331561976

I had a flywheel laying around from the spare engine so I had it turned. However, I forgot that the car had a lightweight flywheel installed so I was in a bit of a pinch. The lightweight one was in really really bad shape. I rigged up a system to turn it myself involving a sleeved bolt, drill with a rubber wheel to keep it rotating and a grinding stone.

You can see it worked out pretty well.
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1331561976

Flywheel and disk went back in without a fuss.
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1331561976

Pressure plate fit just as the one that came off.
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1331561976

After the installation I bled the clutch line and was surprised at the pedal feel. It did indeed engage at the floor but it was not much harder than the ACT that came out. For such a high performing clutch it really did feel nice. If ANYONE says ANYTHING about this being an aggressive feeling clutch they have lost their minds.

I did and you likely will NEED TO ADJUST THE MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER THROW. It's simple and it's related to the extra throw required by this performance clutch. You'll notice that the engagement point is at the floor sometimes leaving the clutch partially engaged. If you press your clutch to the floor and then try to put your car in a gear and it moves the car, even slightly, this needs to be adjusted.

To adjust the master cylinder, crawl under your already-too-small dash board area and loosen the 12MM nut on the shaft coming out of the firewall. Then rotate (by hand) the actuator shaft. I had to adjust mine nearly all the way out but it cleaned up the slop in my pedal and allowed the clutch to completely disengage.

Break-in and review:
Excellent. From gear one the engagement has been smooth. I put 200 or so miles on it before I started boosting and around the 300 mile mark I was confident that the guy was properly broken in. The idea with clutch break in is not to feather the clutch for easy engagement. This creates more heat and that's not a good thing with these freshly mated materials. Quick engagements and rev matched shifts are key for the first parts of break in. Overall I'm very pleased with the clutch and it seems to be holding the power just fine. Kudos to you Flyin' Miata.