Not so stock 99 dyno
 

Mods:
New 99 head (Cleaned)
VICS (Cleaned)
2001 bottom end 10:1 pistons (140K)
Cold side intake with ebay filter. MAF mesh has not been removed yet.
Raceland 4-2-1 Headers (No EGR)
Cat replaced with a glass pack
Ebay "Burnout" RS style exhaust with exhaust leaks!
Torsen LSD
Shell Rotella T6

CEL:
P0134
P1135
I believe its because of my LC-1

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1319938835
It was one of those portable dyno and it was outside hood was also down. I'm not sure why its in MPH not RPM


Next mods are gonna be Exhintake cam and MS2.
yes yes one day I'll go turbo!

seems a bit low... 120hp? Thats practically stock, I wonder why. plus mph? wtf is that.

You'll never see "stock" power from a stock engine. 1.6s supposedly have 116hp, you have an INCREDIBLY healthy motor if you get anywhere above 100hp. Which begs the question of why SM 1.6 motors can have 120 hp.

^sure I get it, but I am saying I have seen bone stock motors dyno that. I guess I could look for a dyno to compare, but I am not sure it matters since dynos aren't so easily compared. different day, different temp, humidity, hell even different settings on the dyno.

why the ---- did yours not come with a tq graph? You can't tell ----. This is like the ---- who came into the MS3 forum and posted a dyno that w/ tq and hp intersecting at 5500+ rpms. We had to tell him to go back to the shop and get them to change their silly settings. wtf?

Needs tuning.

When throwing a CEL on an NB your AFRs are likely in the 11s. There will be gains from leaning it out to 13.0-13.5 and giving it some timing.

Also, I wouldnt bother with the exh-intake cam trick.
A mild cam regrind will be way better. I suggest contacting Delta to see if they offer a BP cam grind (I bet they do).

Then, perhaps Honda intake manifold?

After going through a lot of this http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/f-73.html 120hp is a good number.
Also see this
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=299332
and
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/dyno_...ell_112700.pdf



It was a dyno at a car show for $40. The first run was in 3rd gear then the rest were in 4th. I didn't notice until I got home that it was in MPH. I'll get a hold of them.

I want the exhintake cam because its very cheap and I was impressed with doing it on my brothers 97. I think I'm gonna cut my manifold and my MAF screen. I hope that puts me closer to 130hp. Though I don't think I will break 130 without some tuning.

You can pick up a msm cam from mazdaspeed motorsports for $90. no cutting, no issues.

You can look at my cold air intake if you want to get those 2 ponies from the intake.

It is in MPH when they don't have a tach sensor to put on your #1 plug wire. Many dynos are set up that way, especially if you are at an event where they are cramming people in and out like a dyno day. It's just the lazy way of doing it.

As for the numbers that is a pretty reasonable one. Wheel horsepower will aways be much lower than rated engine horsepower in your car brochure because of the drag of the trans, diff, wheel bearings, tire sidewall flex, accessories, etc, etc. A 1.6 with miles on it will often make 90-95 whp and a 94-97 1.8 will make 100-105 whp stock. That's just what they do. Hitting 120whp is pretty reasonable with his setup. The dyno can be fooled to read a little higher with lighter wheels and a lightweight flywheel because the dyno itself will spool slightly faster.

But I looked SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO COOL!
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1320305222

You ready to install some new rings in the mazda?
 

So here is a video can someone give me an idea what happened at :23
http://www.facebook.com/video/video....29524740488476
the shop where the dyno was said I need new rings.

At the time I might have added to much oil due to the location not having any flat land.

like?
http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com/partsprogram.htm
I'm lost

yea, sorry its not $90 I think thats the NB exhaust cam if you want to do the exhintake mod. the msm cam is like 130-140, I would have to check.

did you check out the video?

burning some oil. it could be a number of things. you will need to do a leakdown and compression test to find out what though. Rings are a good culprit, since its leaking into the combustion chamber. but you could also be leaking from the valve seals/guides. If you check out my spark plug thread in the NB section, you will see what a spark plug looks like when its been burning oil. take yours out and compare. If its only on one side of the spark plug, then its valve guides/seals. If its everywhere, then its piston rings.

Still need to do compression and leakdown though. Thats a good idea either way. Do you check your oil weekly? how much do you go through?

OHH!! You're FI'd also. So if your spark plugs look fine, it could be from the turbo seals.

Right now my front and rear crank seals are leaking. Like my new undertray is covered in oil. I was check my oil every other time I drove. Then I put some seafoam in my crank case and only drove it a little then changed my oil and filter. I haven't lost any oil so far.

FI? no I'm N/A.
I'll check out your spark plug thread and do a compression check.

thank you!

how do you know its crank seals? what mileage?

Stop guessing. Do a leak-down test. Then you will know without a doubt.

Well see Lawrs said it was tooooooo dark to do that.

Any updates on what came of your oil leak?

We replaced the rear main seal.
The oil leak was about the same. Then I put sea foam into the crank case then changed the oil after a few miles. Now the oil leak is extremely slow.
I am also going to change my VC gasket and then do a leak down test.

Ok, glad to hear you got it worked out some. Glad to see you are still around too lol.

when was the last time you changed the o-ring on the CAS?

Yeah you will start to hear from me more, seeing how I have a job now and can spend money on my car.

When I bough the car the head was new. So those seals can't be too old.

Don't be a stranger. Low budget guys can be active too, look at me!

He has a 99, there is no CAS.

another +1 for 99/00!

super jelly, those o-rings are super annoying

There is a cas, just no cas o-ring. Our cas takes the reading off the cam gear.

It's fixed mount and different sensor than earlier CAS sensor as well if I'm not mistaken.

It is, its a hall effect sensor (different form factor probably, I haven't seen the earlier CAS sensors) and its mounted into the valve cover.

they are about six kinds of annoying.

We refer to those as the Cam Sensor--the Factory Manual refers to is as the "Camshaft Position Sensor"

So if anything it should be called the CPS (there is no reference to CAS in any 99-05 FSM).

The acrynom CAS, for all intents and purposes, herby only refers to the Crank Angle Sensor on the back of all NA miata camshafts.

you are right. I am a bit used to CAS since m.net tends to use them interchangeably.

So they look like this
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1328932222

That's how my plugs look when they come out. Probably a sign that you're a bit on the rich side if you're NA, but I've never been good at reading plugs.

As for the oil leak, if you're still chasing that down... My '99 was leaking at the back of the valve cover where the cam sensor would be on a '94-'97 and it took me forever to find it. There's a plug that slips in between the head and the valve cover that the oil was leaking under. I pulled it out and put some gasket maker on it and it fixed the problem.

this car is burning a lot of oil. I can check the plugs tomorrow

So last night I turn on my car and something just wan't right. Wasn't even driving it hard last time I drove it. 150 140 140 120 dry. The car is running very rich 11-12. lots of black smoke.
But cylinder 2 and 3 seem to be the ones missing. Idle doesn't really change when 2 and 3 plug wires are removed even at the same time. moved the coils and no improvement. swapped out the cam and crank sensor. I'm going to replace the timing wheel tomorrow.

Replaced the plugs this morning no improvement and swapped the coils and wires ALL around.


:(
anything I haven't tried or is it rebuild time?

Well it started to play nice and threw a code P0302
Cylinder 2 has 140 compression.
new plugs, tried different wires and coil packs.
Maybe missing a tooth on the timing trigger one of them looks short.

I got gas in the oil from a stuck injector...:bang:

Injector woes suck.