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ok so you said wire pin 27 to the green wire at the FP relay, do i need to cut and splice or just split it in.
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The other end of the lt green wire goes to the AFM connector. So, you could wire pin 27 to 2O, which will come out to the AFM connector, then just jump the two there with a smal peice of wire...this assumes the AFM has been removed, otherwise, the AFM itself takes care of the pump.
if you run it straight to the lt. green wire, just splice it in. |
Originally Posted by MF-Brain
(Post 9313)
The other end of the lt green wire goes to the AFM connector. So, you could wire pin 27 to 2O, which will come out to the AFM connector, then just jump the two there with a smal peice of wire...this assumes the AFM has been removed, otherwise, the AFM itself takes care of the pump.
if you run it straight to the lt. green wire, just splice it in. |
hey i cant seem to find a solid instruction for the bmw tps. i looked at a good one about 3 months ago and cant seem to find it now.
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here:
You will need to source a linear TPS from the aftermarket or from another application. The easiest swap is probably a BMW TPS Bosch part # 0-280-120-402 from an auto E30 or E36, or Bosch #0-280-120-406 from an E32. Both of these should bolt on your miata TB w/o modification. You will need to adapt the wiring harness to accomodate. The BMW pinout is: Pin 1-black wire-5volt in Pin 2-shielded wire-ground Pin 3-yellow wire-signal out Pin 4-ground Pin 5-WOT switch Pin 6-Closed switch _ 6 1 5 T 2 4 3 Pin 4 or 2* to go to the black/grn wire - this is a ground. * Not sure which you need to use. Pin 1 to go to your R wire - this goes back to 1N on the ECU harness and should connect to 5vref from the MS. Pin 5 to go to your LG/WHt wire - this goes back to 2L on your ECU harness and should connect to the TPS input to the MS. |
sweet that was the one i couldnt find.
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i also heard something about the 1.6 having a stock knock sensor?
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ps. you never really answered if i should hook up the narrowband output to stock computer or not.
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if the stock computer runs anything on the engine, then yes you would? If its just running idle, I doubt you would need a narrowband. Idle might be a bit rich, but shouldn't be anything crazy.
stock ecu will run the car without a narrowband, it just gets shitty gas mileage and runs a bit less smooth. |
Originally Posted by RedTurboMiata
(Post 9333)
i also heard something about the 1.6 having a stock knock sensor?
Originally Posted by RedTurboMiata
(Post 9334)
ps. you never really answered if i should hook up the narrowband output to stock computer or not.
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It's a parellel install, I Plan to keep it that way for a while, then when I have some spare cash go ms3
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thumbs down.
yes the stock ECU needs to see the narrowband (as well as the clt/ait), else it doesn't handle the idle control well. |
I'm not extremely comfortable with my wiring ability ATM. Wouldn't mind going full standalone status if I had a person directing my step by step in the garage.
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the only difference is idle control. unplug the stock ECU and you're standlone.
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Really? I thought there was a bit more too it then that. And the under hood part, how do you have that hooked up?
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that's the only thing the stock ECU is doing...throwing codes and controlling idle.
what underhood component? the AIT, the vacuum line? the turbo? the hamster wheel? |
The idle valve, mine leaks somebody tapped it in poorly.
Ps. I want to see the hamster wheel too |
pull it off and set idle manually. Like a ------ man, thats how they did it back in your daddy's time, so why can't you?
(not much of a riddle there, but I will try harder next time). |
Don't you have to a hole in the throttle body.
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Originally Posted by RedTurboMiata
(Post 9373)
Don't you have to a hole in the throttle body.
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I'm so going to screw this up this spring. The more threads I read, the dumber I feel.
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Your not he only one, I feel like full retard status looking at people's maps.
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heh, I'll do a build thread of my my MS adventures when I start. It should make you feel a little better.
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Right now the ms is sitting in the passenger seat. Trying to figure out wtf I have to change.
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Brain what about fan control if I go standalone
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you still have the thermoswitch, or you give control to the MS. simply enough, 1 wire to MS board, 1 wire to harness.
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I thought the stock ecu handled the fan control. And bump to see you idle air valve setup
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not the 1.6L miata.
what about my air valve? there's nothing to see, it's the stock unit. |
Originally Posted by MF-Brain
(Post 9405)
not the 1.6L miata.
what about my air valve? there's nothing to see, it's the stock unit. |
1 Attachment(s)
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did you weld a fitting into the intercooler pipe for the Idle valve?
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Yes, but you should already have one, that's not a MS only thing...
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 9426)
Yes, but you should already have one, that's not a MS only thing...
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yes it's welded on. Just a "fitting" to fit the stock air hose onto it.
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Originally Posted by MF-Brain
(Post 9455)
yes it's welded on. Just a "fitting" to fit the stock air hose onto it.
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1 Attachment(s)
mild, yes.
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1327074916 AIT is no longer is this location, that's now my wastegate boost source. that's also JB welded like a baud. |
Originally Posted by MF-Brain
(Post 9465)
mild, yes.
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1327074916 AIT is no longer is this location, that's now my wastegate boost source. that's also JB welded like a baud. |
Originally Posted by RedTurboMiata
(Post 9467)
---- mines aluminum
Or spend a little money at an aluminum welder. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 9489)
so? Just drill, tap, use a little epoxy or jb weld, take the fitting and shrew it in thar.
Or spend a lot of money at an aluminum welder. |
Originally Posted by Track
(Post 9499)
fty. ;) hehehe. probably not that expensive, as long as he is competent though (unless they like to charge you minimum rates +).
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