If you have a friend build a rollbar and you ever plan on passing tech inspection at a track day, there are very specific rules about its construction, design, and materials. It would suck to spend money and time building one you had to cut up and scrap later.

NASA has rules that are on par with SCCA and most others: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf

Ya I never thought about passing inspection I will have to look into that.

As a noob, it will be a good idea to run a spell check when you post.

A road course is the last place you wanna test things out.
A wall has never lost.

If you wanna skimp on safety, then, your life is your loss.
If you wanna go safe on the budget, then, there are several ways to accomplish that.

First, find a Spec builder. (That's Spec Miata).
Spend a $100 or so with him, and, pick his brains. Ask him about crashes, safety, what not to do, and, have your buddy learn from him.
Road crashes are very different from strip crashes, and, safety requirements are very different.

I found two Ultrashield seats, one Rally Sport 14" (driver's), and, another Spec Miata seat 15" (that's seat width), for $150 each.
Cost me another $300 to install them properly (safely).
Cage? Found one for $300, and, FedEx was wonderful enough to lose one of the bars (windshield).
Padding cost another $150 or so.

Don't skimp on safety. It's your life, you won't be able to redo it.

And, S/C (that's supercharger) when you just got the car? Do you even know how to drive the silly thing?
Have you taken it to autox to learn the balance and its handling?

Or, are you planning to be another AmericanM5?
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...-5-killed.html
http://jacksonville.com/apnews/stori...8UDQ5U01.shtml
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...ml#post1236795

I ment new to the forum and to miata not to life chill out a little I lost a "e" this isnt a very nice way to welcome someone new.

I'm chill as a cucumber.
It's your life and your ride, dude. And, it's your money.

Ask for input? Given.
And, a standard caution to go along. What to do with it is entirely up to you.

Peace! (and, chicken grease!)

np bud I will not be doing anything unsafe I like my life lol

every car I have owned in the past has had more power. I'm not worrying about if I will be able to drive it right now, I just want to get it and drive it stock for a while and add a roll bar of course the SC will get installed over the winter I'm thinking.

But I wouldn’t mind getting some seats and I will be buying new, I only got the SC used because it just happened to be what I wanted and it was local and cheap. I don’t mind ordering the seats or even the roll bar but I was thinking the roll bar was gona cost me a mint to get into Canada.

I live on the south side of the Canadian border, but I find that shipping even large, heavy, bulky stuff by freight isn't all that expensive (Canada to US). Is there a big difference in going US to CA that I'm unaware of?

For instance, an engine/trans set shipped from Toronto ON to Nashville, TN is only a couple hundred bucks and that's using LTL rates (not UPS or FedOX).

As far as learning about safety, you can also go to the Spec Miata board and read a TON of stuff without spending dime one. They are road racers and have YEARS of experience on what works and doesn't. You can also sometimes find good deals on stuff at SpecMiataClassifieds.com.

Typically we get raped on cross border shipping stuff, so I always found it better to ship it to Lewiston then drive and get it, in bulk. For example, sending 4 tires from Penn. to Lewiston via UPS was $40, whoop di doo. Sending the same crap north would have been $200.

Another thing to think about for the bar is where it will be in relation to your head. I have a hard dog deuce in my car, and I couldn't hit it with my head if I tried. However, I installed the boss frog double-hoop designed one into my ex's car, and my head can't even touch the headrest unless I touch my right ear to my shoulder. If you are tracking the car only, then a more intrusive bar is fine, but if it's a DD (daily driver), then it would just get annoying.

As far as the 1.6 diffs go, I say replace it when it breaks. You can get another 1.6 diff, but the 1.8 diff bolts directly in (with new half shafts and driveshaft), and you can get a real LSD. Especially if you are going S/C, you are gonna want the extra grip.

I was going to try and get this copyed I was thinking it would be out of the way and still strong.

I think its 700 new add some shipping onto that with duty and its will be over a grand I still havent talked to my friend about it so I have no idea what it will cost me localy.