CharlesE

I finally got around to checking out the rattles in the back of the car. Happily, the large chassis braces under the cockpit, which I renovated recently were fine.


Two issues were found.


The tubular chassis brace at the rear of the chassis had one bolt, of the two bolts it requires, missing. The free end was vibrating like a tuning fork, hitting the chassis and making a noise. A new bolt fixed that issue rapidly.


The second may be a bit more challenging. While the car was up on a lift, with the wheels supported, and the car in gear considerable play was found in the driveshaft. I'm told, haven't looked it up yet, that this indicates a worn ring / pinion set. As a temporary fix, I drained the differential fluid and replaced it with Mobil 1 75W-140. That's one weight heavier than the specified fluid. If that reduces the noises, I'll start saving up for a new ring / pinion - likely a 3.6 ratio set. Most of my driving is freeway, unfortunately, so that should reduce my engine revs significantly. It also should help reduce the shifting during the very rare autocrosses that I do.


Oh.....there's a pretty large car show in Norwich next week, had over 800 cars last year, and this year should be bigger. So, I'm doing my wash, clay bar, wax, vacuum routine again.

sixshooter

I would hope it was a U-joint and not a pinion bearing, but that's certainly something that could fail.

Steve1991

Sorted out the driver's side window rattle. Arranged for a windshield replacement. Turned down an offer for more than a $1000 than the car is worth. Cruised waterfront properties in the local area. And as always, was sad to arrive home (only a Miata owner would understand that).

sixshooter

I saw a really nice turbo NB at a local meet. He's not on the forum. He spent way too much money getting it turbocharged, but it was nice. It was supposedly 450+hp but I think that was BS because the factory 6 speeds can't handle that much. With a different trans maybe. I just think the shop that did the work fed him a bunch of BS.

Redcap

Well, not really anything I DID to the Miata... In a moment of weakness, I've decided my goal is to try at least 2 beginner HPDEs this year. I've tried it once before, but in CA, all of the tracks are in the middle of nowhere (ie, desert) and the cheapest ones are in the hottest times of the year.

I bought a Helmet and some gloves. That's too bad, cause I just bought some god awful commuter tires a few months prior. My guess is you're gonna see another post about new wheels soon.

My helmet is hidden in the back of the garage right now, but I can't hide 4 new wheels easily from the wife. I can't hide them at my brother's place, because he hid his own set - except when his wife found them, he told her they were mine.

CharlesE

LOL. I know the feeling. I want an oil filter relocation kit. I've speced all the components, 10 AN lines, etc. BUT SWMBO has said mo to new parts for a while! I think the engine build was a bit too much for my (HER) budget😭

Grammabud

I discovered my 99 has rust in the front frame rails.

Is this a common problem?

CharlesE

My NB (MSM) has just over 200K miles on it now, in New England, with a fair amount of winter driving. I generally take it into a car wash for the underbody spray weekly. It's anecdotal, but there is very little rust on most of the car.


Just to be sure, you meant the front frame rails? Or the body panels?
You might want to post some photos.


Also, you may be able to find a local contractor or forensic engineer that has an ultrasonic measuring tool. We call it a "one side caliper". It can measure the remaining steel thickness, which can help in deciding what course to take for repairs.


If the rust is light, obviously sand it and paint with primer and an undercoat material.


There are repair panels available, if the problem is serious enough to warrant replacement. If it's the load carrying members, it may be best to weld in replacement steel.


Of course, if money is no object, there is the tube frame replacement front end, which weighs 10 pounds less than the factory pieces.

CharlesE

I'm finally getting around to posting my odometer photo, about a month after it turned 200K miles. Also, as promised, a few fireworks.

Grammabud

The rust damage is from the inside out.
I'm sure the best repair would be to cut out the damaged area and weld in repair panels.

Who sells the repair panels?

Many thanks...