205mm Riken Raptors homey.

I have 1/16 toe-out up front and 1/16 toe-in back in the rear.

tein flexes with 7k/6k springs. full soft.

RB 7/8" front bar on full stiff. stock rear.



Everyone needs to forget two words: Lanny and Firehawk

Front:

-3 camber
1/16 toe out
5 caster

Rear:

-2 camber
1/8 toe in

Tein Flex 9/6

RB hollow front bar, no rear bar

Just got an alignment done. Will get to test out the effects on Fri & Sun @ track.

Front:
-2.5 camber
0 Toe
3.6 Castor

Rear:
-2.0 camber
0 Toe

12/12.5" Ride height, hollow front bar, stock rear bar. Using this as a starting point to fine tune. I think it might be too much front camber.

Thats very interesting about more front camber than rear. You've got them still fairly close Brain is there an amount of difference that would be too much?

I'm also wondering about how much caster is best for a car with power steering... the NA6 doesn't have it so I've been used to requesting as much caster as I can get!

Currently on the NA8, 8kg/mm front 6kg/mm rear coilovers, 24mm adjustable front sway set to soft, sock rear sway:

front: 0 toe, 1.5 degrees camber, I forget the caster
rear: 0 toe, 2 degrees camber

I've had varying success with 0 toe mostly due to one of the alignments I had being a complete clusterfuck, but this time with the KU31 tyres it was very tight. At the moment have the other wheels with some other tyres and it feels squirrelly again.

Alright im looking for help on what to go with this Wednesday for an alignment. i dont know a whole lot about the subject but understand how it works.
My application is DD/ weekend autocross car
my suspension is Racing Beat lowering springs and stock shocks(soon to be upgraded)

Ok, let me try to be concise here. I will start off by giving you this site for general alignment info:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

then I will give you the alignment page at 949racing and flyin miata:
http://949racing.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx
http://flyinmiata.com/tech/alignment.php

So my alignment guy told me to stick with stock values for Caster and toe, but to dial in some camber to take advantage of cambered turns (at the track). I am running a mild setup as I still daily my car so 1.0F/1.5R. You can run more camber depending on how much you care about tire wear.

Now a trick for tire wear, is to rotate your tires cross ways. Since a lot of tires are rotational directional (i.e. star specs), this may seem like bad advice...but the way it was explained to me is the rotation direction is really only for pushing water out from under the tire. Tt has very little to do with the dry traction.

Also, small things here and there. You can use some toe out to help with turn in for the autocross, but thats not something I know much about as I don't autocross much. Less caster will help with low speed stability/turning (mostly for manual steering) and will inversely affect the high speed stability/turning. Personally, I am running a depowered rack and have no problems with low speed turning, even in parking lots. So I have kept my Caster at stock 5.5. Hope that helps!

My Suggestion:
FRONT
-Stock Caster
-Stock OR 1/16 toe out (please look up a good value here, I am not sure if thats on the mark or not. only suggest going up from stock is to help with autocross, but it will wear out the tires a lot more)
-1.x Camber

REAR
-Stock Caster
-Stock Toe
-1.x+.4 Camber

So your leaning toward this page on m.net
thanks for the help track

not sure, I haven't read that page. My current settings are:
Front
Caster:+5
Toe:0
Camber:-1.0

Rear
Toe:0
Camber:-1.5

I think thats just a generally solid overall alignment. it will get you some performance benefits while still keeping your tires alive. unless you drive like me and overheat the ---- out of them.

the m.net page runs a good bit of toe, which I personally wouldn't do unless my car was for autocross. Maybe a bit in the front for better turn-in, once my miata gets a suspension and doesn't get the high speed floaty feeling.

Do not go toe out in the rear. Toe at the rear should be 0 or if you're having issues putting power down exiting a corner, then a tad of toe in.

For the front, toe out turns faster, but kills tires on street. A touch of toe in improves tire wear and stability/feel. 0 toe is a decent compromise.

I didn't really like my new alignment. I'm going to reduce the static front camber and increase castor. Also thinking about a little toe-in front & rear.

good catch, I completely labelled them wrong. it should be front/rear