What suspension are YOU running?
MFz Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 220
From: NYC
Xida CS
550lbs Front & 350lbs Rear
4.5" pinch weld rear 4.5" pinch weld rear (still working on getting rears higher, waiting on FM shock spacer)
Stock MSM sways F&R
Stock endlinks F&R (waiting on 949 endlinks to be back in stock)
Hard Dog Hard Core & FM frame rails for stiffening (wondering if frog arms are worth it, but they're kinda pricey and the install is damn involved)
First off, my suspension is obviously a work in progress, they haven't even been aligned properly since installed, because I'm waiting on parts, and working on getting my height just right.
That said, as coveted as these coilovers are, there are a few problems people need to be aware of. First, they are LOW, my rears are at their max height right now. MSM is porkier compared to most miatas, so you may have better luck getting height out of the rear. Some people have the problem of a useless tender spring in the rear, meaning the tenders are completely compressed even at full droop. I don't have this problem, but I'm damn close. If you plan on using these on the street, ask Emilio for the extra height bushings in your order. He claims these add about 0.4" of height, but it was only about 0.25" for me. If you've got an NB that isn't stripped, has turbo, roll bar, braces, etc etc.. Get the FM strut tower spacers! Also, goto vorschlag and order a pair of the remote extended length remote adjusters, else you'll never bother playing w/ adjustment in the rear (Emilio won't give you advice on setting this, he'll tell you to experiment yourself). Oh yea, aftermarket endlinks are a must! The stockers will preload both sways even at full droop, since the max height is so low still. The stock endlinks were a bitch to remove even on my always garaged, never driven in rain or snow car, so get a set before getting coils!
Having said all that, here's the good. They ride like a dream! At 6 clicks they're about the same ride as my stock msm, just less body roll, less shudders over the rough stuff. At about 9 clicks, they're downright plush (AST recommends setting these to full stiff, as 0 clicks, and going from there when adjusting). I ride at 9 clicks most of the time, the ride is plush, the road is felt, but not annoying, and body roll is very well controlled. I haven't really had a chance to push these hard, for the reasons I've listed (still a work in progress). But just from the lack of body roll, I'm sure they'll be an improvement.
550lbs Front & 350lbs Rear
4.5" pinch weld rear 4.5" pinch weld rear (still working on getting rears higher, waiting on FM shock spacer)
Stock MSM sways F&R
Stock endlinks F&R (waiting on 949 endlinks to be back in stock)
Hard Dog Hard Core & FM frame rails for stiffening (wondering if frog arms are worth it, but they're kinda pricey and the install is damn involved)
First off, my suspension is obviously a work in progress, they haven't even been aligned properly since installed, because I'm waiting on parts, and working on getting my height just right.
That said, as coveted as these coilovers are, there are a few problems people need to be aware of. First, they are LOW, my rears are at their max height right now. MSM is porkier compared to most miatas, so you may have better luck getting height out of the rear. Some people have the problem of a useless tender spring in the rear, meaning the tenders are completely compressed even at full droop. I don't have this problem, but I'm damn close. If you plan on using these on the street, ask Emilio for the extra height bushings in your order. He claims these add about 0.4" of height, but it was only about 0.25" for me. If you've got an NB that isn't stripped, has turbo, roll bar, braces, etc etc.. Get the FM strut tower spacers! Also, goto vorschlag and order a pair of the remote extended length remote adjusters, else you'll never bother playing w/ adjustment in the rear (Emilio won't give you advice on setting this, he'll tell you to experiment yourself). Oh yea, aftermarket endlinks are a must! The stockers will preload both sways even at full droop, since the max height is so low still. The stock endlinks were a bitch to remove even on my always garaged, never driven in rain or snow car, so get a set before getting coils!
Having said all that, here's the good. They ride like a dream! At 6 clicks they're about the same ride as my stock msm, just less body roll, less shudders over the rough stuff. At about 9 clicks, they're downright plush (AST recommends setting these to full stiff, as 0 clicks, and going from there when adjusting). I ride at 9 clicks most of the time, the ride is plush, the road is felt, but not annoying, and body roll is very well controlled. I haven't really had a chance to push these hard, for the reasons I've listed (still a work in progress). But just from the lack of body roll, I'm sure they'll be an improvement.
MFz Regular
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 51
From: Fayetteville, GA
Running Megan Street Series
560lbs F/ 480lbs R
10 clicks down from Full Hard F/R (32 adjustments which I think is kinda ridicules)
12.25" F / 12.50" R hub to fender.
I'm contemplating whether or not to try going any lower. I refuse to roll/pull the fenders and I don't want to bottom out the suspension or the frame rails on stuff. I also don't want to throw the suspension geometry out the window either by going too low.
BTW, I'm rolling on 14" NB wheels and Falken ZE-912's in the 195/60-14 variety.
There's 3 reasons I went with these coilovers other than bang for the buck.
1) Can raise and lower shock bodies without loosing shock travel
2) Come as complete units with pillow ball top hats
3) Higher than average spring rates
560lbs F/ 480lbs R
10 clicks down from Full Hard F/R (32 adjustments which I think is kinda ridicules)
12.25" F / 12.50" R hub to fender.
I'm contemplating whether or not to try going any lower. I refuse to roll/pull the fenders and I don't want to bottom out the suspension or the frame rails on stuff. I also don't want to throw the suspension geometry out the window either by going too low.
BTW, I'm rolling on 14" NB wheels and Falken ZE-912's in the 195/60-14 variety.
There's 3 reasons I went with these coilovers other than bang for the buck.
1) Can raise and lower shock bodies without loosing shock travel
2) Come as complete units with pillow ball top hats
3) Higher than average spring rates
MFz Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 220
From: NYC
It really depends on your tires, wheels, and offset. You're not that low at the moment. I'm at 12" all around right now and have never rubbed, or bottomed out, unless scraping on certain underground parking facilities counts.
Things to watch out for if you want to go lower, you'll need adjustable endlinks, and again YMMV depending on wheels/tire combo. Also, the roads you drive on will be the biggest factor on how low you can roll. I wouldn't worry too much on suspension geometry unless you go more than another inch lower.
Things to watch out for if you want to go lower, you'll need adjustable endlinks, and again YMMV depending on wheels/tire combo. Also, the roads you drive on will be the biggest factor on how low you can roll. I wouldn't worry too much on suspension geometry unless you go more than another inch lower.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,902
From: Tampa, FL; Lake Jackson (Atlanta), GA
I'm not so sure the next place to go is Frog Arms. If you have the Hard Dog rollbar and haven't added the Hard Dog door bars you are leaving some serious chassis stiffening out.
The car flexes much more torsionally in the area between the front and rear edge of the door than it does between the front of the door and the middle fender area. Not discounting the Frog Arms in doing what they do, but that isn't the area of greatest deflection under load to my understanding. I have read several impressive accounts of what the addition of door bars can do for the chassis.
Having used a Sawzall to cut a Miata in two right in front of the seats and through the shifter opening, I can see why. The Miata relies on the bent thin sheet metal of the transmission tunnel, the lower doorsills, and the bent thin sheet metal frame stiffeners under the floor to keep the heavy structural front and rear subframes tied together.
I was impressed with the testimonials previously, but having seen what little structure exists through that section up close, I bumped door bars up my list several spots.
http://www.bethania-garage.com/door_bar.htm
The car flexes much more torsionally in the area between the front and rear edge of the door than it does between the front of the door and the middle fender area. Not discounting the Frog Arms in doing what they do, but that isn't the area of greatest deflection under load to my understanding. I have read several impressive accounts of what the addition of door bars can do for the chassis.
Having used a Sawzall to cut a Miata in two right in front of the seats and through the shifter opening, I can see why. The Miata relies on the bent thin sheet metal of the transmission tunnel, the lower doorsills, and the bent thin sheet metal frame stiffeners under the floor to keep the heavy structural front and rear subframes tied together.
I was impressed with the testimonials previously, but having seen what little structure exists through that section up close, I bumped door bars up my list several spots.
http://www.bethania-garage.com/door_bar.htm
MFz Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 220
From: NYC
@sixshooter
After riding in my friend's car, which has a custom roll bar w/ door bars, and his door bars are less intrusive than anything available on the market that isn't custom. I don't think I could live with the intrusion. I do already have FM frame rails installed, and I'm one of the people who felt an improvement, and think the rails was worth it. If I ever feel the need for more rigidly in that area, I would just add an FM butterfly brace.
After riding in my friend's car, which has a custom roll bar w/ door bars, and his door bars are less intrusive than anything available on the market that isn't custom. I don't think I could live with the intrusion. I do already have FM frame rails installed, and I'm one of the people who felt an improvement, and think the rails was worth it. If I ever feel the need for more rigidly in that area, I would just add an FM butterfly brace.
MFz Regular
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 51
From: Fayetteville, GA
i'll agree with bigx5 but the chassis is quite strong out of the box in my opinion. I would typically put chassis bracing after a good pair of dampers, springs and sway bars. my $0.02 but i can't see myself ever running door bars
MFz Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 220
From: NYC
I just installed the FM shock spacers. These right here...
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=13-59000
They worked as advertised, gained exactly 0.5" in the rears. Emilio needs to offer these as an option for xida cs for sure if car its going on is dual purpose.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=13-59000
They worked as advertised, gained exactly 0.5" in the rears. Emilio needs to offer these as an option for xida cs for sure if car its going on is dual purpose.
BAMFr
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,787
From: NC
I just installed the FM shock spacers. These right here...
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=13-59000
They worked as advertised, gained exactly 0.5" in the rears. Emilio needs to offer these as an option for xida cs for sure if car its going on is dual purpose.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=13-59000
They worked as advertised, gained exactly 0.5" in the rears. Emilio needs to offer these as an option for xida cs for sure if car its going on is dual purpose.
Last edited by Track; Sep 18, 2011 at 06:01 PM.
