XEDE Resources
08-03-2011, 10:15 AM
#1
Featured Miata!
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 187
XEDE Resources
XEDE is an interceptor style piggy back. It is wired into the wire harness that plugs into the stock ECU. It intercepts signals to the ECU. For example, by intercepting the crank signal, the XEDE can advance or retard timing. By intercepting the load signal, the XEDE can make fuel mixtures richer or leaner. It remains under closed loop during idle and cruise, and goes open loop under boost. The MazdaSpeed Miata (MSM) XEDE also allows the user to control the boost levels.
I've been using it for a few months now and I've found it to be pretty friendly. The XMAP software is basic but it gets the job done and allows you to use output signals for different functions - Water/Meth, Inter cooler Spray, Shift light, boost controller.
My street tuning has been done using an OBD scanner that will display live data and the laptop on the passenger seat. For my closed loop tuning, I just aim for 0 on my Long Term fuel trims, and open loop I use my WBo2. Pretty basic.
I believe BEGI holds exclusive distribution of the unit.
XEDE Installation Instructions 94-97: LINK
Installation Instructions 99-04 (NON MSM): LINK
Installation Instructions 02-05 Mazdaspeed: LINK
Tuning Guide: LINK
XMAP Tuning Software Download: LINK
XMAP Tuning Supplements (XMAP Handbook): LINK
I've been using it for a few months now and I've found it to be pretty friendly. The XMAP software is basic but it gets the job done and allows you to use output signals for different functions - Water/Meth, Inter cooler Spray, Shift light, boost controller.
My street tuning has been done using an OBD scanner that will display live data and the laptop on the passenger seat. For my closed loop tuning, I just aim for 0 on my Long Term fuel trims, and open loop I use my WBo2. Pretty basic.
I believe BEGI holds exclusive distribution of the unit.
XEDE Installation Instructions 94-97: LINK
Installation Instructions 99-04 (NON MSM): LINK
Installation Instructions 02-05 Mazdaspeed: LINK
Tuning Guide: LINK
XMAP Tuning Software Download: LINK
XMAP Tuning Supplements (XMAP Handbook): LINK
08-08-2011, 08:09 PM
#2
MFz Regular
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 142
Thanks for the feedback, there's comparatively very little feedback on the Xede compared to other options.
How long have you been running with it and how much boost are you currently supporting with it? Have you experienced any random CELs while driving with Xede?
How long have you been running with it and how much boost are you currently supporting with it? Have you experienced any random CELs while driving with Xede?
08-09-2011, 08:15 AM
#4
Featured Miata!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 187
As for any random CELs: Not anything unexpected. Random Cylinder Misfire is a common one and it's related to timing. If you add good amount of timing in the out-of-boost areas you'll see this code because of how far out of range you're adjusting the crank angle sensor.
How much boost: I'm running about 12.5-13 LBS. This is the limitation I've run into with XEDE. It's due to the range of the MAF. Anything higher than this and you'll see the CEL related to out of range Mass air flow sensor.
How long have I been running XEDE: The car has been tuned for about a year on it. I just recently had problems but it was related to an enormous hole in my compressor outlet. Sealed it and now I'm tuning for meth. The cool part is, my AEM meth system has a "Fault" output if anything is wrong (low fluid, disconnected pump...) and I have it connected to my XEDE to automatically switch tunes back to a safe non-meth tune.
Like Greddy Emanage?: It's similar in the fact that it's an interceptor style piggy back but it's quite a bit more friendly than the Greddy. The XEDE does not 'Fight' the factory ECU as much. It's pretty reliable if you tunes off of your fuel trims. I ran the Greddy emanage Blue on my last car for about a month and pulled it. I didn't like the interface, it seemed inconsistent.
The hard part about XEDE or Piggy backs in general is tuning without useful logging. The XEDE does not show your O2 signal on the screen so you must rely on your WBO2 which is fine, it's just difficult trying to watch both of them. I've heard that you can do some type of o2 input but I have not done it, nor seen how it's done.
You car has short term fuel trims and long term fuel trims. STFT LTFT based on your primary O2 feedback. The Short Term Fuel Trim is what the car is currently doing to correct fuel Example: at 2200RPM and 14% load it needs to take out -8% fuel. If your car notices that each time you hit 2200RPM @ 14% Load it is taking out -8% fuel it will eventually change your Long Term Fuel Trim to -8%.
When you're tuning "Closed Loop" on a piggy back, these numbers are the only thing you should watch. The WB02 reading is the already corrected fuel, so why watch that? The LTFTs can be stubborn so If you've just started tuning XEDE or an area of your map, I usually start by disconnecting my battery for a moment to clear my LTFT. This will set it to 0% long term corrections, everywhere on the map. In essence it shows you how good your tune actually is. With the LTFTs cleared, plug in your Scan Tool that will display "Live Data" and bring up your STFT and LTFT based on Sensor 1 Bank 1, its a feedback displayed on a scan tool that supports it. Find an area long and flat to do this tuning, or a Dyno and cruise in a gear (i usually use third) at a consistent RPM like 2000RPM and hold it at the same load % until you get a change in LTFT and it's consistent. If you get -10% or -20.3% or minus anything, you need to remove fuel from that area on your MAF Map. Make changes to your map and retry that RPM and Load %, you're going to aim for 0% correction in all of your Closed Loop areas. The scan tool will indicate your Closed Loop status too, but this can also be controlled by the XEDE using the O2 Map. Once you've tuned 2000RPM at your cruising Load %, move on to 2500 or 3000RPM at a cruising Load %. Once again, wait for the LTFT to change and make your corrections. Once you've done this in most of your Closed Loop area of your MAF map, you'll notice that the car will be quite smooth, as the factory ECU is not working it's *** off to fix your tune.
Then you can move on to the Full Throttle tuning or Open Loop tuning This is where you must have a WB02. Find a gear and put your foot to the floor at relatively low RPM, watch the WB, make corrections in these areas to aim for 13.5ish in low boost, and 12.5 in boost. But it's however you or your tuner feels best. I usually pull up my map and tap "Print Screen" when I see that it's out of range and needs correction. This allows me to paste the screen shot and see what RPM and Load I was in at that time, so I can make corrections when I'm not hauling ***.
How much boost: I'm running about 12.5-13 LBS. This is the limitation I've run into with XEDE. It's due to the range of the MAF. Anything higher than this and you'll see the CEL related to out of range Mass air flow sensor.
How long have I been running XEDE: The car has been tuned for about a year on it. I just recently had problems but it was related to an enormous hole in my compressor outlet. Sealed it and now I'm tuning for meth. The cool part is, my AEM meth system has a "Fault" output if anything is wrong (low fluid, disconnected pump...) and I have it connected to my XEDE to automatically switch tunes back to a safe non-meth tune.
Like Greddy Emanage?: It's similar in the fact that it's an interceptor style piggy back but it's quite a bit more friendly than the Greddy. The XEDE does not 'Fight' the factory ECU as much. It's pretty reliable if you tunes off of your fuel trims. I ran the Greddy emanage Blue on my last car for about a month and pulled it. I didn't like the interface, it seemed inconsistent.
The hard part about XEDE or Piggy backs in general is tuning without useful logging. The XEDE does not show your O2 signal on the screen so you must rely on your WBO2 which is fine, it's just difficult trying to watch both of them. I've heard that you can do some type of o2 input but I have not done it, nor seen how it's done.
You car has short term fuel trims and long term fuel trims. STFT LTFT based on your primary O2 feedback. The Short Term Fuel Trim is what the car is currently doing to correct fuel Example: at 2200RPM and 14% load it needs to take out -8% fuel. If your car notices that each time you hit 2200RPM @ 14% Load it is taking out -8% fuel it will eventually change your Long Term Fuel Trim to -8%.
When you're tuning "Closed Loop" on a piggy back, these numbers are the only thing you should watch. The WB02 reading is the already corrected fuel, so why watch that? The LTFTs can be stubborn so If you've just started tuning XEDE or an area of your map, I usually start by disconnecting my battery for a moment to clear my LTFT. This will set it to 0% long term corrections, everywhere on the map. In essence it shows you how good your tune actually is. With the LTFTs cleared, plug in your Scan Tool that will display "Live Data" and bring up your STFT and LTFT based on Sensor 1 Bank 1, its a feedback displayed on a scan tool that supports it. Find an area long and flat to do this tuning, or a Dyno and cruise in a gear (i usually use third) at a consistent RPM like 2000RPM and hold it at the same load % until you get a change in LTFT and it's consistent. If you get -10% or -20.3% or minus anything, you need to remove fuel from that area on your MAF Map. Make changes to your map and retry that RPM and Load %, you're going to aim for 0% correction in all of your Closed Loop areas. The scan tool will indicate your Closed Loop status too, but this can also be controlled by the XEDE using the O2 Map. Once you've tuned 2000RPM at your cruising Load %, move on to 2500 or 3000RPM at a cruising Load %. Once again, wait for the LTFT to change and make your corrections. Once you've done this in most of your Closed Loop area of your MAF map, you'll notice that the car will be quite smooth, as the factory ECU is not working it's *** off to fix your tune.
Then you can move on to the Full Throttle tuning or Open Loop tuning This is where you must have a WB02. Find a gear and put your foot to the floor at relatively low RPM, watch the WB, make corrections in these areas to aim for 13.5ish in low boost, and 12.5 in boost. But it's however you or your tuner feels best. I usually pull up my map and tap "Print Screen" when I see that it's out of range and needs correction. This allows me to paste the screen shot and see what RPM and Load I was in at that time, so I can make corrections when I'm not hauling ***.
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