99mx5's ARTech EFR build
#51
Here are pics of the plugs from the tuning session the week before. The flash makes them look a bit whiter.
I'm pulling the engine out now. I expect to have it out later on today.
Here's a pic of the driver side of the block.
I'm pulling the engine out now. I expect to have it out later on today.
Here's a pic of the driver side of the block.
#52
I just finished pulling the engine today. No 2 rod is gone! It broke near the top and snapped up to the underside of the piston and cracked it and it stuck at the top of the cylinder. The rest of the rod swung around and punched a hole in the cylinder and the driver side of the block and the oil pan. It also made a dent in the sub-frame cross member.
#57
Now to order parts for the rebuild. Can the crank be reused after such an ordeal? The bearing journals on my crank are perfect, the spare crank will need some work because of a spun bearing.
The bores on my spare engine are really nice and have no scratches. Should I just get them rehoned or go up one piston size?
Any piston and rod recommendations?
Gasket kit recommendations?
I have been looking at the Flying Miata gasket kit, ARP studs for head and mains, Boundary Engineering oil pump, Eagle rods and CP pistons.
The bores on my spare engine are really nice and have no scratches. Should I just get them rehoned or go up one piston size?
Any piston and rod recommendations?
Gasket kit recommendations?
I have been looking at the Flying Miata gasket kit, ARP studs for head and mains, Boundary Engineering oil pump, Eagle rods and CP pistons.
Last edited by 99mx5; 04-01-2012 at 03:38 PM.
#58
For rods get the cheap chinese forged ones on ebay that come with the good arp2000 bolts for ~$200
Use a stock Mazda head gasket. If you don't have a coolant reroute, use a 2001-2005 stock NB headgasket.
ARP - Yes
FM - probably good but way overpriced like everything else they sell.
Eagle rods - don't spend more than you need to if you are shooting for under 400whp. The chinese forged rods are plenty good for up to that.
#60
Here it is:
I used the sides of the jack to make the flange for the water pump inlet and the blocking plate and I used the handle to make the inlet tube and connector tube.
The spacer is a moss spacer with a groove cut for the thermostat.
I also used a 2003 Kia Sephia thermostat cover P/N 0K247 15172A. The upper hose is a GM truck hose and the lower hoses are Dayco P/N 71586 or 71989 (Not sure which because I used a Z shaped hose at the upper part to clear the AC lines). I ran the heater hose away from the engine in the engine bay and added a ball valve to shut it off when racing.
I used the sides of the jack to make the flange for the water pump inlet and the blocking plate and I used the handle to make the inlet tube and connector tube.
The spacer is a moss spacer with a groove cut for the thermostat.
I also used a 2003 Kia Sephia thermostat cover P/N 0K247 15172A. The upper hose is a GM truck hose and the lower hoses are Dayco P/N 71586 or 71989 (Not sure which because I used a Z shaped hose at the upper part to clear the AC lines). I ran the heater hose away from the engine in the engine bay and added a ball valve to shut it off when racing.
Last edited by 99mx5; 04-02-2012 at 01:40 AM.