jtpaintballwdp's '92 Build
 

I have a build thread over on MT.net, but I figured Id get one going over here as well. Here is a link to the MT.net one if you were wondering about the boring history of the car:

http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=63441

I will try to keep this thread as up to date as possible, starting with some pics tomorrow after I wash the thing, its so dirty.

Installed items:
Brain Built DIYPNP MS full standalone
AEM UEGO Wideband
15x8 6UL Gen.2 with 205/50-15 Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1
Tokico Blues with Tokico springs (on the car when I bought it)
Hard Dog HCDD
1.8l Front and rear brakes
FM stage II clutch

Have in the garage:
Garrett SR20 t25 turbo

Short list:
ID725s
949 racing Wilwood 11" BBK

Medium list:
ARTech Manifold
ARTech Downpipe
ARTech Dump pipe
ARTech Exhaust
ARTech Oil and water lines
TiAL EWG
1.8l Torsen

Long list:
Vmaxx Xxtreme coils
Undecided bigger turbo
Spare 1.6l engine
Ebay Rods
other misc stuff for a mild engine build with stock pistons.

What artech design are you going with? If you look up Slutz4's build thread on mt, that's the bottom mount I'm getting, with that same turbo. It seemed like a ridiculously easy hot side piping, which I like.

I havent decided yet. It all depends on if I want to remove my AC/PS. I have been driving around with the belt off the PS and am liking it so far, it only really sucks if I have to parallel park or something like that. I haven't had AC for 3 years or so (needs a recharge), but it does kind of suck when it gets stupid hot here.

That's shitty. I forgot such problems exist. So your only option is top mount? He said side mount wasn't a real option, since it requires some difficult fab work to make it fit, hence why FM and BEGI's cast manifolds are so popular. Top mount kinda sucks the life out of me with the required kink in the downpipe, although I'm sure Abe could create an epic one.

When you completely depower it, the steering will get easier (as you aren't having to move all that fluid which is still pressurized and ----).

If its not too bad now, then it will get easier. Admittedly parallel parking isn't too bad, but its not as easy thats for sure.

That's what I hear. I think I might just buy a manual rack. I don't do really do much track so I don't know if going thru the whole de-power process is worth it over just swapping a manual rack. Any opinions on this?

Up to you really, I found looping the lines to be adequate. By adequate, I mean I have had no complains and no real reason to remove the rack and hack up the seals.

My de-power process was removing pump, reservoir, and brackets, then removing lines going into rack, unlocking the steering wheel by turning key, and pushing the wheel (with front end off ground) back and forth left to right as quickly as possible to force all possible fluid rapidly out of the holes. I pushed the tire back and forth until nothing was coming out, then looped the line one end into one fluid hole on the rack the other on the other. I also had one degree of steering caster removed (down to ~4 degrees) and everything is wonderful.

What did you use to plug the holes for the lines going to the rack? Do you notice any slop?

cut off the ends of the lines, but leave an inch or two extra. Pinch it and fill it with RTV.

No slop for me.

Easy enough.

If you don't want to cut the big ones btw, you can buy "drain plugs" at lowes/home depot for them. I think its 16x1.5 and 14x1.5, but I could be wrong about either. You can look it up on google and find the sizing (which is slightly different from NA to NB I think).

The smaller 4 lines are easy though:
2 you loop
2 you pinch and RTV

the 2 big ones you can:
pinch and RTV
or buy plugs at lowes which maybe of incorrect size (ie too big). You will need to either make a spacer using washers or the like, or cut the bolt to size. the big one fits, I think its the 14x1.5 thats tricky.

I am making it sound complicated, but its not bad at all.

Doesn't seem too bad, maybe I'll look in to it this weekend.

I still might be willing to swap out our steering racks if you wanna do all the work for me.

Haha, I forgot about this option... Might still take you up on that. I wont do anything to my rack until we figure that out.

I just looped the inlet and outlet to each other. It flows air from the left side to the right side and vice versa when you turn it.

Here is my current tune, and log hows it lookin'?



Or not... cant post .msl over here?

Nothing terribly cool to report, got my intake done (for now, eventually going to run it to the mouth of the car

And also picked up my LS2 coils from Shuiend over the weekend. Next project is wiring them up and running sequential.

https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1335196513


https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1335196445

when you install turbo, cap the current AIT bung and weld a new one just past the IC, like within inches of it, outside the engine bay, in front of the rad.

Sounds good. I even have a spare bung in my tool box. intake temps are much cooler now that the filter is away from the header. I need to pick up a new under tray, need to see if anyone has one local, Rosenthal wants $63 for it +$32 for the mounting hardware. Screw that. Need some ducting for the rad too.

make your own?
really bad picture but, we made this out of some aluminum flashing left over from work my dad did on the house we used to live in. did cost me anything but a few hours of measuring and cutting.
https://www.miataforumz.com/attachme...ine=1335199352

Do you have something for under the engine, like the splash guard? I need a new one of those. The ducting for the rad I plan on doing my self.

i have from the front bumper to the backside of the radiator.

i acutally have an unmolested undertray in centreville. i think.

Ill take it, even if its slightly molested. I need to get something under there. LMK and I'll send some dollars your way.

That is if you actually have it, and want to get rid of it.

ill have to ask my dad to look for it. you can pick it up from him if it's there.

Scott, did you ever get in touch with your dad?


Completely different thought.

So lately I have been wanting to build a NA 1.8... I don't know why.

Sent an email to Abe of ARTech with what I think is my final decision for my manifold and Down pipe. Decided to go with a T3 similar to Scott's. With a log manifold and 3" v-band downpipe.

Was going to go "ABUSRDflow": style, but with everything I have going on right now, I just cant swing it.

Here is my list from ARTech.

Log Manifold
3" Down Pipe
Oil Feed and Oil Drain lines
Test pipe so I can bolt my factory exhaust to the ARTech Down pipe, because I'm a cheap ass and have to wait to get my exhaust made.

Now I need:

FMIC
1.8 Diff
ID1000s
BOV

are the smaller IDs any cheaper? there's no reason you need 1000s. espeically on a stock motor. like if 725ccwere cheaper, I'd go for them.

edit: n/m looks like they are the same cost.


regardless, I might still go for 725s. Were are talking the difference of supporting around 400BHP vs. 550BHP. The smaller ones will still be that much easier to control...and considering you're still onyl on ms2, which doesn't have quite to resolution the ms3 does.

Afaik they are all the same price

725cc are the smallest, and they are $480.

Trackspeed has the ID1000s for $480

http://trackspeedengineering.com/sto...991cb43a27e0c3

Figured I might as well since they are the same price, and since they are EV14s should idle fine.

i just think it's overkill, regradless of how fast the dead-times on the 1000cc injectors are. youll get more fine tuning and precisness out of the smaller ones, with more than enough overhead.

/2 cents

I suppose this is true. Maybe I'll go with the ID725s

Do you remember the dimensions on your intercooler?

I'm lazy and don't feel like searching MT.net

On a totally unrelated note, my car no longer wants to idle steady. The AFRs are all over the place, and idle is jumping +/- about 50-75rpm.

IIRC my core is 18x6.5x2.5. I think it's of poor quality and would honestly choose a begi ic next time...

did you let autotutne touch idle?

I had looked at the BEGi ones, they seem nice because they are ready to bolt in.


I did, then i manually adjusted it some, and its better.

the begi ones are built to last, and typically have way better/stronger "fins." They also seem to have more fins, so there's more chance of cooling.

just pricy.

I like the mounting solution too.

So Abe convinced me to hold off ordering the mani and dp until I can also order the exhaust at the same time and he'll do v-bands on the whole system included.