MF-Rick

Good. I wasn't sure & felt I needed to save you right away. The best part about my experience was:

1) I questioned the shop using it from the beginning. They said autometer specifically made the kit and it was safe

2)While my car was on fire everyone was waiving at me like this I was all like wow, they love my car ... but soon after I was like this as the fire raged under the hood. Key off stopped most of it. Of course, being totally smart I tossed water on the fire. It was my first reaction and I only had around 1l of it anyhow.

3) I got to pay for the tow and repair. I went braided line after and never had a problem again. The shop owner told me we should have never ran that line kit. so fail.

Dem768

So everything seems to be going well. Break in is complete with an uneventful 600 miles so I started to boost her. Ran 14PSI flawlessly and once the Adaptronic Rapid Learn had dialed in my fuel I cranked it to 17PSI and I cant keep the tires on the car

Happened to park next to this pig. I could have saved on the meter and parked under him.


I noticed some oil on the bottom of the engine when I was changing out the Break-in oil. Seems to be coming from the oil feed line where it attaches to the block.

After tightening that up I decided I'd paint and install my catch can.


I went with this can from flebay so that it could be opened and modified to act as a real catch can. This requires a removable top and a nylon shower luffa. You cut the rope off of the nylon material and shove it inside the can to act as a baffle. Then I sealed it back up and painted it the usual wrinkle black.


I mounted it using the factory emissions canister location with some modification to the bracket.




Overall- I think it came out very clean.


The car is hauling ***. There shouldn't be too many street cars that can hang this summer.

Dem768

So my oil leak is annoying. I went to the shop last night and tossed it up and it looks like the Stainless turbo oil feed line coming from the drivers side oil location is a bit chewed up in some places. It's also leaking from the fitting on the block.

After reviewing some pictures I remembered that the 94 and earlier blocks have a turbo oil feed location on the correct side of the block. No need for the 47 inch stainless line running under my engine



I'll go after work and pick up the fittings and likely use what's left of my huge stainless line to make the connection. It's good when things work themselves out like this.

Dem768

So in prep for some Dyno tuning I've picked up an EGT system. I went with AEM to keep a theme in the car and because I should be able to run the 0-5v output to my Adaptronic for datalogging.

My methanol is now operating at 275-300cc progressively starting at 3PSI. I'll leave the AEM flow meter gauge to do some logging and then I'll create an input for that on the Adaptronic too.



After putting about 1500 miles on the car I decided to check the general health of the motor. I have not exactly been easy on the poor thing and it was not built by an engine builder (because I built it on my kitchen table!).

I ran a compression test and I couldn't be happier.

Dry Test:
Cylinder: (1) = 150.00 (2) = 149.5 (3) = 150.5 (4) = 150.5



I gave myself a pat on the back. I'm glad my cocky attitude about not paying anyone to do something that I can teach myself how to do, paid off.

Now to finishing that EGT Pyrometer installation. I picked this location for a number of reasons- because it was accessible with the header installed, it was easy to check for leaks, it was free from interfering with other items in the engine bay and it's about the perfect distance from the exhaust outlet.




I did my usual, sleeving and heat shrink overkill deal. The wire supplied with the kit starts out with this braided wire for heat and then turns into this god awful YELLOW! So I covered it and ran it into the cab along with the methanol feed line.



Came out clean if you ask me...



Then as a lastish step before getting into some serious tuning I needed to install and wire up my intake air temp sensor. I ordered the GM open element sensor from DIYAUTOTUNE. Found HERE.

I wanted it to be near the throttle body for accuracy but not after the Meth because I'm not sure how long that would last and it might cause false low temp signals.

So I picked here. It's maybe 14 inches from the TB and after the intercooler.


Welding the bung on started with removing the powder coating.


I clamped it in place and tacked it to make sure everything was where I wanted it to be.


Everything looked good so I finished up the weld and spayed it with some durable flat black paint.

MF-Brain

iTrader: (1)

directly behind the radiator...not exactly where I would have gone to first. but nice job none-the-less.

Track

wrap insulation around it and call it a day. ---- looks good, in for first start and 10 second pull videos.

Dem768

Well if you think about it.. It's an open element sensor meaning the sensor itself is directly exposed to the air. The heat soak would have to travel through the brass fitting, then plastic, the then sensor leads. Not saying it will have zero heat transfer but it's probably minimal.

The car has been running for a bit. Looks like you missed the video.. This is just after I started it for the first time. https://www.miataforumz.com/showpost...1&postcount=95

MF-Brain

iTrader: (1)

Been there, done that. and you'll see too, but the Xeded piggy probably can handle it better than what we are sed to in MS...but in that location, the minute i turn off the car, I see my AIT skyrocket.

Dem768

I see what you're saying. However, the minute you turn the car off there is no longer air flowing through the pipe. The air is still and is indeed heat soaking because the pipe is hot from the radiator, therefore the sensor would still be accurate?

I'm also running ADAPTRONIC not XEDE.

MF-Brain

iTrader: (1)

yeah, I've just found the heat up 20-30°F delta, and the temps don't drop back down until you actually start moving. Not just idling as, at least on my car, the BOV leaks so there's no real movement where my AIT sensor is (similar to yours). This is a bit troublesome on the MS because of the built in Ideal gas Law code and the agressive built in fuel corrections, so as the temps are hotter the MS pulls too much fuel.

Moving the AIT sensor to just past the IC outside the engine bay and away form the rad significantly reduced the heatsoak and warm-start issue.

Your adaptronic probably still handles the issue better than MS. It's one thing the programmers and myself dont see eye-to-eye with. I use a corrections table incorrectly to compensate for it, its a bandaid at best and can cause other problems in boost where the temps correctly get warmer.