Coolant Re-route
Thread Starter
MFz Lurker
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 27
From: Brisbane Australia
Coolant Re-route
Yep that old chestnut
Have decided that with my mods I may be heading into overheating teritory.
Na6,ms3,COP,seq ign and fuel boost tba. Average speed probably less than 55 mph in hot forests with power level essentially on boost at least 30-50% of the time. am also planning on roadracing but you guys have way more experiance then I on that.
I think I have read every post on MT and miata.net and am still undecided. In my Subaru rally car you Had to leave the thermostat in otherwise the coolant flowed too quickly to pull heat out of the radiator and block therefore causing overheating.
What have you done and why.
Heater in or out
thermostat front or rear
Bypass from rear port straight to radiator or back to mixer
photos or links based on actual experiance
would be great.
Justin
Have decided that with my mods I may be heading into overheating teritory.
Na6,ms3,COP,seq ign and fuel boost tba. Average speed probably less than 55 mph in hot forests with power level essentially on boost at least 30-50% of the time. am also planning on roadracing but you guys have way more experiance then I on that.
I think I have read every post on MT and miata.net and am still undecided. In my Subaru rally car you Had to leave the thermostat in otherwise the coolant flowed too quickly to pull heat out of the radiator and block therefore causing overheating.
What have you done and why.
Heater in or out
thermostat front or rear
Bypass from rear port straight to radiator or back to mixer
photos or links based on actual experiance
would be great.Justin
zoomzoom
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 924
From: Arizona
I'm doing heatercore out, rear 3 way tstat. When cold it loops back to WP inlet, when warm, goes to radiator.
Although this is not a track car. Mostly fun weekend runs and what not.
Although this is not a track car. Mostly fun weekend runs and what not.
Last edited by FRT_Fun; Aug 30, 2011 at 07:14 PM.
MFz Regular
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 66
From: Plant City Florida
I can not offer much advice on a reroute.
If you have to remove the thermostat, the best method is to gut the thermostat (remove the valve) and reinstall it. You will have a restriction that is somewhat similar to a stock thermostat.
If you have to remove the thermostat, the best method is to gut the thermostat (remove the valve) and reinstall it. You will have a restriction that is somewhat similar to a stock thermostat.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,902
From: Tampa, FL; Lake Jackson (Atlanta), GA
The only time you could get away without running a thermostat would be if you were running a dedicated drag car. Your engine needs to reach and maintain "operating temperature" to allow the breakdown of acids that develop in your oil as a product of combustion. It also is necessary to become warm enough to cook off accumulated moisture in the oil and in the crankcase. Additionally, the clearances within your engine and the design specifications of the oil are both optimized for a particular operational range.
Because of the design characteristics of the engine, it is optimal to use a thermostat at the rear of the head and to maintain bypass flow through the heater circuit to the mixing manifold. As you know, a front mounted thermostat shortcuts the flow necessary to cool the rear of the engine and creates an unwanted gradient between the front and rear. The relocation of the thermostat can be done with or without the heater core in the loop. But the heater circuit coolant circulation is necessary because it allows the thermostat to accurately sense the operational temperature of the engine. Inadequate flow across the sensing side of the thermostat will yield poor and sometimes erratic regulation of temperature.
Heater core is optional and will not effect the outcome as long as flow through that circuit is maintained. Flow back to mixer is preferred because it is the point of greatest suction. If you go to the radiator instead, the circuit won't flow with the thermostat open and the heater won't work.
Because of the design characteristics of the engine, it is optimal to use a thermostat at the rear of the head and to maintain bypass flow through the heater circuit to the mixing manifold. As you know, a front mounted thermostat shortcuts the flow necessary to cool the rear of the engine and creates an unwanted gradient between the front and rear. The relocation of the thermostat can be done with or without the heater core in the loop. But the heater circuit coolant circulation is necessary because it allows the thermostat to accurately sense the operational temperature of the engine. Inadequate flow across the sensing side of the thermostat will yield poor and sometimes erratic regulation of temperature.
Heater core is optional and will not effect the outcome as long as flow through that circuit is maintained. Flow back to mixer is preferred because it is the point of greatest suction. If you go to the radiator instead, the circuit won't flow with the thermostat open and the heater won't work.
Last edited by sixshooter; Aug 31, 2011 at 08:09 AM.
