What suspension are YOU running?
#81
yea, I would say you are running a little too much camber for the spring rates (depending on ride height too). and you can either go with the normal/basic camber rates of higher front than rear, or use emilio's performance rates which are higher rear than front. I would run something like 1.8* front and then .1-.2 LESS in the rear. Or just run what he says on here.
http://949racing.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx
Either way, your benefit would be a stiffer front and no rear or a really stiff front and keep the rear sway. So 1" FM front and no rear or 1.125" tubular RB and keep the rear on. that will bring your FRC back up close to 60% rather than 55% you are at right now.
I would also remove the front toe in, but if you drag the car, then I don't know.
http://949racing.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx
Either way, your benefit would be a stiffer front and no rear or a really stiff front and keep the rear sway. So 1" FM front and no rear or 1.125" tubular RB and keep the rear on. that will bring your FRC back up close to 60% rather than 55% you are at right now.
I would also remove the front toe in, but if you drag the car, then I don't know.
Last edited by Track; 10-18-2011 at 11:00 AM.
#82
You got me thinking now.....
1st i need to google FRC cause you lost me on that lol
I started my alignment based off this
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html
Maybe the front toe is what's throwing me off and making it twitchy when oversteering..
I just may take your and Emilio's advice hmmmm
Thanks
1st i need to google FRC cause you lost me on that lol
I started my alignment based off this
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html
Maybe the front toe is what's throwing me off and making it twitchy when oversteering..
I just may take your and Emilio's advice hmmmm
Thanks
#83
nah, let me save you time my friend. FRC is front roll couple.
go here:
http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/
mouse over FAQs, Suspension tools, then mouse over Online Suspension Calculator and then click on Tutorial.
Read, learn, play with the spreadsheet and then make sure to switch to the 99-05 spreadsheet when you do your numbers.
Also to pick out a "glitch" the tubular swaybar wall thickness is actually 4.78 and not 3.18 like its left on there.
Front toe is really pointless unless you autocross and toe in gives you high speed stability but worse turn it. And your oversteering is just because of your spring rates more than anything. the rear toe in helping you a little actually. But your higher camber rates maybe hurting (note maybe, not sure on that one 100%, but there is a point where there is too much camber and that will lead to less grip/traction)
go here:
http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/
mouse over FAQs, Suspension tools, then mouse over Online Suspension Calculator and then click on Tutorial.
Read, learn, play with the spreadsheet and then make sure to switch to the 99-05 spreadsheet when you do your numbers.
Also to pick out a "glitch" the tubular swaybar wall thickness is actually 4.78 and not 3.18 like its left on there.
Front toe is really pointless unless you autocross and toe in gives you high speed stability but worse turn it. And your oversteering is just because of your spring rates more than anything. the rear toe in helping you a little actually. But your higher camber rates maybe hurting (note maybe, not sure on that one 100%, but there is a point where there is too much camber and that will lead to less grip/traction)
#85
Thanks for the help man, I haven't seen fatcats calculator yet, big fan of his stuff but another difference I'm not sure how to calculate is my springs are progressive so I know that changes the physics a bit on it.
My car has pretty good grip, more than before it's just once it breaks it wants to grip again so it's not as easy to predict it.
I'll play w/that calculator some more and see what i come up with.
Appreciate the help.
My car has pretty good grip, more than before it's just once it breaks it wants to grip again so it's not as easy to predict it.
I'll play w/that calculator some more and see what i come up with.
Appreciate the help.
#86
The same rate springs front and rear will give you massive oversteer to the point of being seriously dangerous. If you decide to keep the springs you can compensate like Track said by getting the biggest front sway bar (Racing Beat hollow race) you can find and removing the rear bar. Using the fatcatmotorsport calculator to understand the relationships between the variables in the suspension system is a great benefit. Everything is related in the system. If you change one thing it will effect two or three other things. It just takes a little studying and tweaking to get something that works well.
#87
I have the same setup and I really enjoy it for a DD. I've autox'ed a few times and it feels great, I think I could benefit from some stiffer sways though.
Ride is more comfy than previous msm stock setup and handles better. BTW the shocks are Bilstein,
Rates are strange, I've heard 250 lbs front and back, progressively wound.
I got mine for a steal and at this price I would buy again but if i were to spend over 1k, I wouldn't.
Ride is more comfy than previous msm stock setup and handles better. BTW the shocks are Bilstein,
Rates are strange, I've heard 250 lbs front and back, progressively wound.
I got mine for a steal and at this price I would buy again but if i were to spend over 1k, I wouldn't.
I hope you didn't purchse the h&r new, for that kind of money you could've had msm bilsteins revalved to springs of your choice, with money left over.
#89
I've heard all these assumptions before and it's all speculation, I would offer my car to anyone and I'm confident you'd retract your statements, there is no insane oversteer like many people assume, it feels great, I believe the rates are the same front/back but they compensated with the dampening. Also everyone ignores the fact that they are PROGRESSIVE and hard to compare rates to other coilovers.
These are the same as the basic Bilstein coilovers (Pss9 or something close to that) they're just rebranded H&R.
I've honestly wowed anyone who's driven my car with this setup as it was not what they were expecting.
Ohh and no I didn't buy new, I traded my msm setup for these with 1000 miles on em + $300 and it was very much worth it.
These are the same as the basic Bilstein coilovers (Pss9 or something close to that) they're just rebranded H&R.
I've honestly wowed anyone who's driven my car with this setup as it was not what they were expecting.
Ohh and no I didn't buy new, I traded my msm setup for these with 1000 miles on em + $300 and it was very much worth it.
Last edited by $hane; 10-19-2011 at 08:55 AM.
#90
I'm pretty sure the bilstein pss9/10 are a dual spring setup, not progressive.
It's hard to believe h&r found some magic way to defeating the car's weight transfer physics from factory, and by every miata suspension tuner. FM and 949 have probably done more suspension testing on these cars than anyone. They've never deviated from the higher rates up front, or the positive rake.
It's hard to believe h&r found some magic way to defeating the car's weight transfer physics from factory, and by every miata suspension tuner. FM and 949 have probably done more suspension testing on these cars than anyone. They've never deviated from the higher rates up front, or the positive rake.