sixshooter

I can answer this question for me. My new setup is sitting a little higher than what is fashionable but I decided to leave it that way because Sebring (which will be the closest thing I have to a home track) is pretty rough in many spots such as turn 1 which is a fast sweeping left-hander. I'm also not running really high spring rates so I probably need the extra travel. I'm also not wanting to bottom out on the curbing on the track or unsettle the car as much.

Jeff Abbott

^^ Yup, fashion goes out the door for ride height when you need to your ---- to handle..

thirdgen

I just got a set of Koni Str-t shocks and a set of racing beat lowering springs. I'm probably gonna put then on this weekend. I'll let you know how I like everything. Have any tips / suggestions for me?

Track

be patient, do the fronts first as they are harder. I suggest you go with removing the two bolts that hold the lower part of the steering knuckle in place, rather than the long bolt method.

Also, make sure to support stuff with a floor jack!

sixshooter

Yes, remove the bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the control arm or you will kill yourself trying to get it apart.

The racing beat springs I have that came with my parts car weren't but a couple of pounds stronger than stock and were virtually useless. Have you looked at the numbers on their rates? Not really worth doing. I hope you are planning on different length bumpstops if you are going lower than stock or you will be in a world of discomfort.

bigx5murf

despite Track's suggestion not to use the long bolt method. I'm actually a supporter of the long bolt method. It does require you to remove the splash shield, but after that, you can remove the strut + spring w/o spring compressors. Not to mention no stepping on rotors and accidentally bending that heatshield to ----, so that it rubs the rotors when you get it back together.

I did my swap exactly like this...

Track

either way works, I find the long bolt to be a bit more work, but then again with the ES bushings there is no kicking or stepping on the rotor either.

atlnb

This is what I have now: Xida CS (450 F, 300 R), Carbing 3 Point Bar, FM front sway w/ SuperMiata endlinks. Perfect for what I am using the car for (DD, backroad fun, and occasional autocross). Infinitely better than my old setup.



Here's the new strut bar in the engine bay. It's just as functional as it looks. Very effective piece of kit and very light and well made. Beautiful welds and craftsmanship

flying_solo

iTrader: (1)

How much did you get that Carbing for?

atlnb

I got it used for $350 shipped from Rod at Tetsuya Garage. Normally, they cost around 450 new